13/4/12

We had a sleep in this morning and during the morning the girls caught up on a couple of days' washing. Karen and I also cooked a chocolate cake in our crab BBQ. Around 1.00pm we went for a drive. Firstly we went to the Railway Museum and were pleasantly surprised by the quality and quantity of exhibits on display in a number of Sidney Williams sheds. There was everything from anything to do with trains to fragments of exploded bombs and a rusted .50 cal machine gun. We spent over an hour walking around and viewing the exhibits. Then it was time to move on. We took the tourist road from Adelaide River which is the Old Stuart Highway and it leads to the turnoff to Litchfield National Park and a few other places of interest. Our first stop was at Robin Falls. The track into the so called falls is a rough dirt track that follows a creek. Eventually we came to a couple of cleared areas where tents could be set up. We took a short walk to the creek and we discovered crystal clear running water that begged for us to jump in.   A swim would have been great in the 38 degree heat but the girls didn't have their bikinis and refused to skinny dip. I had my footy shorts on but I was quickly informed if they couldn't swim neither could I. So it was back to the car and back onto the Old Stuart Highway. We drove as far as the turnoff to Litchfield National Park and a sign advised that many of the roads from there were still closed. We turned around and drove back to the caravan park.

14/4/12

We left Adelaide River at our usual time of 9.30am and continued our northward journey. We passed a couple of WW2 airstrips that ran parallel with the highway. They were Livingstone and Strauss airfields. Strauss had information boards and large cutouts of fighter aircraft on display and I couldn't resist the urge to stop and have a closer look and take some photos. Karen and Mary-Anne finally dragged me away and we drove to our caravan park, Aurora Shady Glen at Winnellie. It is a nice caravan park with plenty of large shady trees. The only downside is the place is nearly full and our relaxed camping style is being cramped. It's only for 8 days and the airconditioning is great. In the afternoon we went for a drive to the City Centre and found the Information Centre. We then walked in the blazing sun, without my hat, to the Cenotaph in Bi-Centennial Park. It was once Darwin Oval and it was from here that some of the first shots were fired against the attacking Japanese aircraft on 19 February 1942. From the city centre we relied on the GPS to direct us to the Casuarina Shopping Centre. It is the largest shopping Centre I have been in. It makes Chermside shopping Centre look like a corner store. We stocked up on groceries and the first affordable alcohol since leaving Queensland. Unfortunately, late in the afternoon I succumbed to the ravages of the burning tropical sun and heat and was struck down by malarial dysentry and sun stroke. Luckily for me I have the ability to self diagnose and prescribed a long lie down under direct airconditioning and 10 cans of XXXX Gold to replace lost fluids.

15/4/12

My previous afternoon's diagnosis and corrective action proved accurate and I woke this morning firing on all cylinders. Mary-Anne wanted to buy some lace material to replace a couple of worn curtains in her van and I wanted a couple of computer fans for the back of the 3 way fridge. I dropped the girls off at Spotlight and I went to Jaycar. Then it was onto the Nightcliffe Markets where Darwin's hippies and druggies try to sell their rubbish. After an hour of smelling incense and some other strange smelling smoke we all became a little peckish. I was craving a sausage roll and began my search. I quickly discovered that sausage rolls are not cooked in a wok and all the food on offer would be normal fare in Bangcock. I settled on the only edible food fit for human consumption on display in all the 3^rd world eateries and that was 2 fish cakes. Mary-Anne, who would not be out of place in Phuket, had some fried rice and Karen bought 2 spring rolls. Our feet were getting sore and we were all eventually hippied out so we left and returned to the caravan park. I started fitting the fans, Mary-Anne started fitting her curtains and Karen washed both cars.

16/4/12

Today we went to the Australian Aviation Heritage Centre. There is a large aircraft hangar filled with every type of aircraft. The biggest and most prominent exhibit is a huge B52 Stratobomber. It may seem unbelievable but it is easy not to notice the B52 for some time as you walk around and look at all the planes and exhibits that are at eye level. When you take the time to look up you realise that everything you have been looking at is standing under the B52. Yes it really is that BIG!!! It is simply an amazing place to visit. Then we drove to Charles Darwin National Park where we saw numerous reinforced concrete and steel ammunition bunkers build during WW2. Then we drove around Darwin Harbour and saw thousands of Mary-Anne's favourite trees – the mangrove. She was over the moon with joy. We also found the oil storage tunnels that were built during the war but unfortunately we arrived after closing time. Across the road from the oil tunnels we discovered a wave pool and safe swimming area.

17/4/12

This morning we drove to Fanny Bay and walked along the beach in front of the Darwin Boat Club. Not far from the Boat Club we found the Old Fanny Bay Gaol. We wandered through the cells and buildings until we found the Infirmery where a number of prisoners were hung. The gallows and drop pit were on display for all to see. Mary-Anne fainted when I told her what the large overhead wooden beam and the pit were used for. She thought the pit was where they changed the oil and the wooden beam was where they hoisted motors and gear boxes from. We dragged her outside to the fresh hot air and she eventually came to. Then we continued on and ended up at the Darwin Military Museum. There are two intact very large concrete gun emplacements, one outside the museum grounds and one inside. There is a visual display area inside the museum building and many exhibits on display in the grounds. The standout exhibit is the large concrete gun emplacement that even has a replica 9.2 inch naval gun in position. After we finished at the museum we drove to the Casaurina Shopping Centre. Then it was back to the caravan park for a cold beer or 10.

18/4/12

The morning was spent doing nothing for a change. Karen dropped a tooth filling a few days ago and had a 12 midday dentist appointment. We dropped Karen at the dentist and Mary-Anne and I drove to Nightcliff beach for lunch. Then it was back to collect Karen and we went for a drive through Nightcliff and followed the coast to Lee Point. We eventually made our way back to the caravan park and enjoyed the afternoon doing odd jobs or just nothing at all.

19/4/12

Another day of little to do as Karen had another dentist appointment at 1.15pm. We dropped her off at Nightcliff and Mary-Anne and I did a little exploring. Much of the area from yesterday was covered again but it helped to fill in the time. After Karen was finished we set the GPS to find Mindil Beach. This is where there are markets during the tourist season but fortunately for me the tourist season hasn't started yet!!!! We had a short walk along the beach keeping watch for sea snakes, crocodiles, sharks and box jelly fish. After Mindil we found the Darwin Museum and Art Gallery. We all wanted to view the Cyclone Tracy exhibition. Admission was free for a change but no back packs or cameras are allowed inside. We eventually found the Cyclone Tracy exhibit and found it fascinating. There were hundreds of photos of the devastation as well as audio and visual displays. The audio exhibit was great. Karen and I entered a completely darkened room where the sounds of 260kph winds and the scraping of twisted corrugated iron were ear shattering. Something touched Karen on the head and the deafening sounds of Cyclone Tracy's fury were suddenly drowned out by a blood curdling scream and the killer thud of an open hand haymaker. After I came to I ventured into the land, sea and air exhibit that displayed all the nasty biting, stinging and man eating creatures that share the Darwin area with us humans. (If I was allowed to have a camera I could have left a photo of Karen to add to the killer collection.) I cannot believe how anyone could have survived in the early days as there is not one creature up here that wouldn't try to kill or eat you alive given half a chance. After the museum,we decided to drive along the BiCentennial Esplanade and were lucky enough to spot the entrance to the Aquascene where wild fish come to be hand fed every day. We paid the admission and went to the feeding area and were confronted by hundreds of mullet, milk fish, bat fish, cat fish, one barramundi and one large groper (NOT ME!!!) waiting to be fed. The table manners of the fish reminded me of our families around the dinner table at Christmas time. We all joined in and threw pieces of bread to the waiting fish. The result was a pandemonium of thrashing, splashing and bumping as the fish all tried to eat the first piece of bread to hit the water. To say it was fun would be an understatement. We had a ball. It was time to leave when the fish would not eat anymore bread and it was after 6.00pm when we arrived back at the caravan park. We still had to cook our own tea unlike the fish.

20/4/12

It was sleepin day and I made the most of it. Mary-Anne started her knitting lessons with Karen this morning. After 3 hours in close one on one tutition Karen emerged with two 2 inch long rows of knit one pearl two that she proudly displayed for the whole caravan park to admire.  After lunch Mary-Anne and I drove to a caravan place and bought a replacement door handle for her caravan.  I spent the rest of the afternoon removing the old and fitting the new part.  It's good to just spend a day not having to go anywhere for a change.

                              P40 Warhawk on display at Strauss Airfield on the way to Darwin.

                                          They really do have a B52 bomber on display!!!

                                                                B25 Mitchell Bomber

Ammunition storage bunker in Charles Darwin National Park.  Complete with Japanese bullet holes in the front door.

                      Large concrete naval gun emplacement at the Darwin  Military Museum

                                                            9.2 inch naval gun in the bunker

                                                         Fanny Bay Beach at low tide

8/4/12

We had a little sleep in before having breakfast and venturing up to the barramundi pond to view the park owner hand feeding 8 very large and hungry barramundi. He has them trained to appear when people start congregating at the fence. They know a feed is not far away. He is a character and even grabs them by the mouth and lifts the hugh fish out of the water. It is amazing how fast they react when food is presented. After the fish feeding show it was in the Prado and off to the Thermal pools for a swim. The Thermal pools are in a different location from the Bitter Springs but the same type of water coming from an underground aquafer. The carpark at the Thermal Pools also houses a replica of the homestead from the book 'We of the Never Never'. The woman who wrote the book lived in the area for about 12 months and the book relates her experience and the people she met while there. The replica is the actual homestead build for the 1960 movie 'We of the Never Never'. After seeing the homestead I'm glad I have my caravan with air conditioning. Then it was a pleasant walk past the Thermal Pools resort and caravan park to the actual thermal pools. What a different setup from the Bitter Springs. Here the banks of the creek have been lined with rock and hand rails and seating platforms were positioned just under the water for short people and the infirmed like me. There was even sand on the bottom which could be easily seen through the crystal clear water. We splashed about for about half an hour before Karen said it was time to take a short walk to Stevie's Waterhole. Mary-Anne and I were a bit dubious about Karen's definition of a short walk but we reluctantly agreed. After about 8kms of steep, windy snake infested track in 50 degree humid heat and no drinking water, we came to a lovely shaded tree area of creek with white sandy beaches. It was a lovely oasis and I expected to see Gilligan come out of the bush. I thought a swim here would be lovely to cool off after out walking ordeal. Then I saw it. A SIGN, telling Mary-Anne and I that this ideal location was in fact the home of Mr S W Crocodile ( Salt Water Crocodile). We were deflated, hot, sweaty, thirsty and tired. Karen on the other hand was leaping from tree to tree like a monkey with boundless energy and suggested that we jog back to the Thermal Pools and have a swim. Mary-Anne and I suggested that she swim HERE instead and we would ring a taxi. As usual, Karen won the day and we drudged back to the Thermal Pools. What a relief to fall into the pools, feining a heart attack and floating face down waiting to be rescued by two female German back packers. Just my luck they were both male and gay!!! I can't win. Then it was in the car and a short 12km drive to the Elsey Cemetery where many of the real life characters of the book 'We of the Never Never' were actually buried. A short distance down the road is a stone monument locating the actual position of the original Elsey Station Homestead.

9/4/12

Again it was not an early start and we are leaving today. We eventually packed up but before leaving the caravan park there was something special we had to do. Mary-Anne and I led the way to the dining area at the kiosk and put in our orders for SCONES, JAM and CREAM!!!!. Even Karen enjoyed them. Then we left and headed for Katherine. When we arrived we went straight to the Information Centre and found out everything about, and near, Katherine. Then we drove 9kms along the Victoria Highway to the Manbulloo Homestead and caravan park. What a different type of caravan park. It had the usual power and water but the ancient African Mahogany trees lining the driveway to all the caravan sites were unbelievable. The whole area was in total shade from these hugh spreading monstrous trees. I thought for a split second “we won't need the air conditioning” then I slapped my self for thinking such a thought. After setting up we drove back into town and the girls booked us all in for a boat cruise up the Katherine River to see two gorges. We then went to the Katherine Hot Springs but due to the recent flooding the whole area was still in a mess. We then drove down to the Low Level Recreation area on the banks of the Katherine River. This was a really scenic spot but evidence of recent flooding was visible. From there we continued on for a couple of kilometres and went to the Springvale Homestead. This is supposed to be the oldest surviving original homestead in the Nancy Territory. How people could build something so nice out of local stone and wood in the middle nowhere, back then in 1879, has got me beat! I doubt many people today could do it even with access to modern machinery and tools.

10/4/12

It was the 6.00am alarm that woke us this morning. We have to be at the Katherine Gorge visitors centre before 9.00am for our cruise. After a pleasant drive we arrived and waited with about 60 other people for the boat captains to arrive. We didn't have to wait long and we were all loaded aboard an aluminium tour boat. The cruise was great. There was a pleasant breeze blowing as we sailed up to the end of the first gorge. The Captain gave a running commentary as we cruised and looked and photographed everything about us. Again we were confronted by towering sandstone walls and lovely white sandy beaches. As this is now the official 'Dry Season' the water level has dropped and exposed rocky rapids which are the boundaries between each of the thirteen gorges. In the 'Wet Season' it is possible to travel up the full length of the Katherine Gorge in a speed boat as the rapids are covered by about 5 metres of water. We have to be happy with two. At the end of the First Gorge we had to abandon ship and walk about 300 metres around the rapids to another boat moored in the Second Gorge for the second part of our cruise. This one was spectacular as we cruised through the Katherine Canyon. It was similar to the Grand Canyon with 200 to 300 metre high cliffs towering above us. Every now and then there was a small waterfall coming out of the face of the cliffs. There were even pirate caves and the hint of buried treasure at the base of the cliffs. On the way back a lonely fresh water crocodile was spotted sunning itself near the water's edge and it became the most photographed object of the morning cruise. We had to change boats again on the way back and then it was all over. But it was well worth the $73.00 cruise fee to have seen such a wonderful place. After lunch in the picnic area near the car park we decided to visit the Cutta Cutta Caves back down the Stuart Highway 30 kilometres south of Katherine. We made it in time for the 1pm tour and were sent along a 600 metre walking track lined with lime stone rocks and death adders. At the cave entrance we were met by our guide who led us into a dark and beautiful fairyland filled with poisonous snakes, spiders and bats. All these creatures must have heard that Karen was in the cave and we never saw any of them. However the limestone stalagmites and stalactites and sparkling crystal formations were impervious to our presence and shone from the hidden mood lighting like glittering jewels. It was a 200 metre walk to the end of the walking platform and from there we would have had to crawl, duck and weave our way through narrow crevices in total darkness because our guide, who had the only torch, was not going any further. Reluctantly, we decided, with everyone else, that we would turn around and walk back to the entrance. To our estonishment we found that as we walked back the air rushing in from the entrance was like air conditioning as it blew past our sweating bodies. The walk in was with the breeze and was very hot and humid. It was back to Katherine and the girls had to have some retail therapy and empty Woolworths. I used my retail therapy time more purposefully and emptied the Liquor Barn of XXXX Gold. Then we went to the Katherine Museum and viewed photos of early pioneers and artifacts from the past. There was also a good WW2 history at the museum. They even had pieces of exploded bombs dropped by the Japanese on display. There is sooo much WW2 history up this way as the whole top end of the Northern Territory was one huge army, airforce and naval base. Add to that - the top end was bombed 64 times by the Japanese and many people were killed and injured. It was the front line for the defence of Australia at the time and the launching place for allied air attacks on Japanese bases and shipping in places and waters north of Australia. After tiring ourselves out at the museum it was back to the caravan park for tea, beer and bed. Maybe not in that order!!

11/4/12

We left our leafy caravan park and drove into Katherine to refuel before heading north to our first destination for today - Edith Falls. On arrival at Edith Falls we saw evidence of recent flooding. There was debris 5 metres up in the trees. To our shock there was a NO SWIMMING sign on display at the waterhole that Edith Falls deposits all its water into. It was the type of waterhole that you could imagine Adam and Eve would have swum in back at the beginning of time. It has crystal clear, cool water and a back drop of craggy cliffs and the waterfall that would make a Cecil B De Mill film look amaturist. The National Parks have not had time to check the swimming hole for salt water crocodiles. I suggested to Karen and Mary-Anne that the Ranger should get some back packers to test the waters. Another wasted suggestion!!!!! Then it was on to Pine Creek which is a little town further up the Stuart Highway. I thought it should be nominated for a 'Tidy Towns' award. It was so neat and tidy. We had a walk around the Water Gardens situated in the centre median strip and then we went to the Railway Museum. The people manning the museum are from Esk. They came to Pine Creek last year and stayed for a couple of months. They decided to come back again and are staying for an unknown time. The museum has a fully functional steam locomotive but no-one qualified in town to fire it up. We left Pine Creek and were intending to get to Adelaide River. However on the way I saw a sign “WW2 Airfield”. I braked hard and swung left onto a dirt road. Luckily for us it only lasted 100 metres and then we were on the old Stuart Highway. Eventually we saw signs of a clearing and a driveway through the low shrubs. We turned into the driveway and there it was. A long expanse of bitumen runway that disappeared into the distance. The first thing to do was a run along the full length of the runway with a smile a mile wide. After driving back to meet Mary-Anne, who had arrived by this time, (the old Stuart Highway is not maintained and has quite a few potholes - she is more careful of her caravan and drives a bit slower over rough roads) we were all so excited that there was no discussion about where we would spend tonight. A lovely flat solar panel friendly site was selected and a wonderful afternoon and night lay ahead.

12/4/12

It was wth a pang of sadness that we left our airstrip haven and we drove back along the old Stuart Highway to meet the new Stuart Highway. We turned left and headed for Adelaide River. We had a quick stop at the Emerald Springs Roadhouse before continuing on and eventually we arrived at Adelaide River. A quick drive through town was conducted and then we headed for the WW2 cemetery. To say it is well kept and cared for is an understatement. It is pristine, and so it should be. There are the graves of many of the soldiers, sailors, airmen and civilians who lost their lives during the Japanese sneak attack on 19/2/1942. This was the first of 64 such air raids to be inflicted on the Top End during the war. Then we headed for the ARSS. This stands for the Adelaide River Show Society. The show ground has facilities for caravans and is very well kept and run. We selected two nice sites and setup. After lunch I fired up the computer and started clearing up a back log of 5 days of travel on our computer diary. The girls read books and went for a swim in the afternoon. About 6.15pm we went for tea at the show grounds. On certain nights there are meals available and a bar is run. This is great you don't have to leave the show grounds to have a good time.

                                                          Bitter Springs swimming hole

                            Barramundi feeding at Territory Manor Caravan Park Mataranka

                                      Swimming hole at the Thermal Springs Mataranka NT

                                                 Springvale Homestead at Katherine NT

                                            Katherine Canyon in the Katherine Gorge NT

                                                Sandy beach in the Katherine Gorge NT

                                         Stalagmite in the Cutta Cutta Caves Katherine NT

              Caravan row at Manbulloo Caravan Park under the shade of African Mahogany trees

                                       Tea time on the runway of McDonald WW2 Airfield

                                                   Adelaide River War Cemetery NT

We have been out of range for the past 9 days.  Our trip report is below and photos will follow.  Happy reading.

29/3/12

We left our desert oasis about 9.30am and headed west towards Ayers Rock. On the way we called into Curtin Springs cattle station. It also has a motel setup and paid for powered sites as well as free camping non powered sites for tents and caravans, no water and showers cost $3 per person. I tried to buy some beer but a six pack was worth $36.00. Karen gave the approval for a 2lt cask of fruity wine for $25.00. I'm starting to dislike the Northern (Teatotlers) Territory. We continued on and eventually arrived at the Ayers Rock Resort and Caravan Park about midday. After booking in we quickly set up on our allotted sites and had a quick bite to eat. Our first impression of Ayers Rock was it's not that big. However we were stunned by its massive size when we were standing at the foot of it. We drove around the whole of Ayers Rock, walked up half way to the top (the heat and slippery steepness won out), we then drove around Ayers Rock and then did the Kuniya Walk to Mutitjulu Waterhole. It was only a 1km return walk.  We left Ayers Rock and drove 50kms to the Olgas. We walked the Walpa Gorge track for a total of 2.6kms through blazing heat and flies. The view at the end was enjoyable but not as spectacular as some of the gorges in the McDonnell Ranges. The Olgas are 36 separate rocks (domes) and the tallest is 200 metres higher than Ayers Rock and they are just as impressive. But not being one single rock they don't receive the same notoriety. We decided to stay and watch the sunset at the Olgas. Tomorrow we will watch both the sunrise and sunset at Ayers Rock. It was late when we returned to the caravans and we were all tired. We ate an easy tea and retired for the night after a couple of wines (God help me!!!).

30/3/12

Why does the sun have to rise soooo early. The alarms went off at 5.00am in both caravans and we were on the road to the Ayers Rock sunrise viewing area by 6.00am. When we arrived every Japanese and European tourist in Australia was already there. There was even a group of sun worshippers chanting as the sun rose above the horizon. I might add that there were some Australians but we were way outnumbered. Ayers Rock changed from a dark brownish colour to bright shades of red as the sun's rays danced across its many exposed facets while areas of shaded rock contrasted with darker colours. The event was outlasted by the sunworshippers who were still chanting and playing their ridiculous bongo drums long after the last rock watcher had left. We drove to the Mala Walk car park and joined 6 Tour bus loads of tourists on a 2km return walk to the Kantju Gorge. On this walk you are right at the foot of the Rock and our necks became sore from looking up to try to see the top of Ayers Rock. There are many photogenic spots on this walk and the cameras copped a hiding again. Thank God for digital cameras and large memory cards. The walk ended at a quaint waterhole at the end of a small gorge at the foot of towering sandstone walls. After the walk we returned to the caravan park where we relaxed and sheltered from the heat for a couple of hours. The girls heard there were shops in town and immediately dragged me kicking and screaming with them. There was an upside, Karen said I could check out the beer prices at the pub while we were there. That was an offer I couldn't refuse. With half the shop bought out it was onto the Hotel. My good mood was short lived. Beer could only be purchased by Kerry Packer or Rupert Murdoch as they are the only people I know with enough money to be able to afford a carton of beer. I couldn't even afford a 6 pack at the going rate of $38.00. I couldn't even buy a cask of wine because they aren't allowed to sell them because you know whos live near by. Tourists and non indigenous residents should be exempt from the Federal Government's stupid policy. It was back to the caravans to unload the groceries. Then it was out to the sunset viewing area to witness the changing colours of Ayers Rock on the opposite side. We were not disappointed. It did in fact change colour from a dirty brown to bright red a number of times. It was all over by 7.30pm and it was back to the caravan park for an early night. We head off in the morning towards Alice Springs.

31/3/12

With all good intentions of leaving early it was 10.00am when Mary-Anne was finally ready. She had three baths after she got up and before we left. I have never seen a more cleaner person in my entire life. Our first stop on the way back was at Curtin Springs Road House for a pit stop and to buy a cask of fruity wine. A man cannot live by Billy Tea alone. It was a non stop drive to Erlduna at the intersection of the Lasseter and Stuart Highways. There is a Shell Road House with Cabins and a Caravan Park. We had hot chippies!!! The second I've had since we've been away. Our next stop was 30kms up the Stuart Highway at a roadside rest area called Desert Oaks Rest Area. We plan to spend two nights here to relax and recover from the last hectic week. It is a great spot with shady desert oaks and desert bloodwood trees. It was clear skies and few clouds. The solar panels almost jumped out of each vehicle by themselves with excitement. They will be worked overtime in the next day and a half. I can't keep typing as I have to relax. See you tomorrow!!!!!!!!!

1/4/12

I woke this morning to a loud male voice talking to Karen. I came out to check and found a local character had pulled into the rest area and wanted to burn some of his rubbish. Guess where he wanted to burn his stuff. You guessed it, in the wood BBQ about 6 feet from the caravan. He reminded me of Talc Alf (Google the name, it is a real person) and as he was a Vietnam Veteran I didn't have the heart to tell him to piss off. We all chatted for about an hour (I hadn't been to the toilet yet and I was busting) and then he left, leaving only a memory of a phamton visitor and the smell of burnt cardboard in the caravan. The girls amused themselves by reading books, washing and ordering me around. I hid most of the day behind the cars pretending to be checking the solar panels, as every time I showed my face I got a job to do. It's great just relaxing in 50 degree direct sunlight. The girls don't know how lucky they are under the awnings with a cool breeze, with their feet up and reading. The rest of the day was uneventful and my tan is coming along well.

2/4/12

Karen and I were up early and went for a walk up and over red sand hills and along the Stuart Highway. We tried to be as quiet as church mice when we got back so we would not wake Mary-Anne. But my heavy breathing from exhaustion was rattling her windows and she woke up again without a sleep in. We had breakfast and packed up and headed once again for Alice Springs (The Wowser's Capital of the World as I was to find out). We arrived at 11.00am and it was straight to Woolworths so the girls could buy some groceries and for me it was to the Liquor Barn attached to Woolies to buy a cask of wine. To my horror, it didn't open until 2pm!!!! What the #@%*!!! That was 3 hours away and we wanted to do a bit more travelling after leaving Alice Springs. We had lunch after the girls had finished shopping, and I decided I would hang around until 2pm and the girls would drive 31kms north to the Tropic of Capricorn Rest Area and setup. We both refuelled before the girls left and I proceeded to wait for the appointed opening hour. It was as if time stood still. I thought I had been there for 3 days when 2pm came around and I was first in the Liquor shop when the door rolled up. I walked around and around and not one cask of wine could I find. I finally found a worker and inquired where he kept them and he told me they don't sell them. I could feel the smoke coming out my ears and asked where I could buy one. He said the Todd Hotel at the end of the Todd Mall. I walked for half an hour and could not find this mysterious pub. I walked back to the car and caravan, that I had parked in a dead end street by accident and eventually got on my way. By chance, when I was travelling down a road I hadn't driven on before, I found a Hotel and drove in. I selected two 2lt casks of wine and went to pay for them. The attended stated that I couldn't buy them until 6pm. I went off like a sky rocket!!!!! I asked what time I could buy a carton of beer and he said now. I should have bought beer in the first place but the Nancy Territory takes some getting used to. Eventually I arrived at the Tropic of Capricorn Rest Area at about 3.30pm and had to wait until 6pm until I could enjoy a cold rationed beer. I LOVE QUEENSLAND!!!!!

3/4/12

After a good night's sleep, thanks to Mary-Anne lending us her spray water bottle, we all had breakfast and were on the road by 9.15am. We plan to spend the night at the Devils Marbles National Park and it is 360kms away. That is a big day for us! We zoomed along at 90kph until we reached Prowse Gap rest area and the call of nature overtook us. We had a short stop and then it was on the road again until we stopped about 12.30pm at Barrow Creek Road House for lunch. It was a fairly short drive from Barrow Creek to the Devils Marbles camping ground and we arrived to find that half the sites were taken up already. We selected a good solar friendly spot and positioned the caravans parallel so the awnings were just overlaping and this provided great shade and respite from the 38 degree temperature (in the shade!). The girls washed clothes and then became engrossed in their books for the rest of the afternoon. I checked the solar panels as usual.

4/4/12

We left The Devil's Marbles at 9.15am and had an uneventful drive to Tennant Creek. There we planned to refuel and Karen wanted to buy a couple of items from the grocery store. It must have been pension day because all the old beat up cars were lined up at the garage when we arrived. After waiting for 20 minutes for the last heat of crap to leave, it broke down blocking the bowser. I said to Karen: 'This is not good. Golly gosh we have been waiting for so long and now this happens. What an inconvenience.' (That's not what he said. He had a huge wobbly and no golly goshes came out of his mouth. I will let you all use your imagination.) We then left that garage and went to the BP and lined up again only to find when we eventually got to the bowsers that no cards were accepted. I said to Karen: 'Golly gosh we are having some bad luck here. Let's try another garage.' We then drove to the Mobil at the other end of town and filled up without incident. Karen said to me as we were leaving the garage: 'Stop talking like a methodist minister or I will ride with Mary-Anne for the rest of the day!!' What a thrill it was to leave Tennant Creek and rediscover ourselves in the vast empty wilderness that lay ahead. We had a quick stop at the Three Ways roadhouse and I recharged my mobile phone via internet. Then we were off again and stopped about 30kms up the Stuart Highway at a Rest Area called Attack Creek where John McDouall Stuart was attacked by people from Tennant Creek when he came through in 1862. We'd already had our experience with them and expected a quiet afternoon and night. The girls washed again and I did you know what. What a life!!!

5/4/12

We were all up early this morning for no particular reason. We eventually packed up and, for some unknown reason, we left at our usual time of 9.15am. I keep asking why we can't get away any earlier and the girls can't answer the question. Anyway we headed north and stopped at Renner Springs Roadhouse for a look. It is a self contained roadhouse with a pub, motel and caravan park. We found out there are 11 people living permanently at the roadhouse in the middle of nowhere. Karen couldn't work out why anyone would want to live there. I could, if I owned the pub!!! We left the 11 people to themselves and continued our drive north. Our next stop was at Elliot with a much larger population than Renner Springs. Come to think of it, Renner Springs is between Elliot and Tennant Creek. I know now why the 11 people are living at Renner Springs. We had lunch a short distance from the Police Station under a large shady tree. The temperature was 38 degrees in the shade and 50 something in the sun. Our destination for today is the Longreach Waterhole in Lake Woods. The turnoff is a short distance out of Elliot and a bull dust track is supposed to head westward for 12kms to the waterhole. We didn't know what lay ahead so we ploughed on through the swirling clouds of bull dust and corrugations. At one point there was a Y junction and I took the left track but missed the sign saying 'This Way', meaning the other track. It quickly became apparent why we shouldn't be on this track with a 2 tonne caravan acting as a sand anchor in the deep powdery bull dust!!! A quick stop was made without using the brakes and it was 'ALL HANDS ON DECK' to let the tyres down. Well the only hands letting my tyres down were mine. Karen and Mary-Anne were standing in the shade of their parisols with looks on their faces as if their last tea bag had been used. With less air in the tyres it was possible to reverse out without incident and it was full speed ahead again, this time with Mary-Anne in the lead. We found a great spot right next to the lake and positioned the caravans parallel so we could maximise the shade from the awnings. It is Holy Thursday and families from nearby properties are also turning up with their ski boats to have fun on the water. It is such a nice place we plan to spend 2 days here and just relax. Again there is no internet or phone reception but the sunset is great.

6/4/12

After a restful night we awoke to a wonderful sunrise and with it the heat. After breakfast I setup my portable pump and collected some lake water for washing. Mary-Anne, Karen and I made use of the pump and sprayed our heads with cool water. The girls did some more washing again. The rest of the day was spent sitting around under shady trees and only moving when the shade moved. I think it is hotter today than yesterday. I pleaded with Karen and she gave permission for Mary-Anne and I to pull out the generators and fire them up.  I spent the rest of the day inside the caravan with a cold breeze blowing over me.  Mary-Anne also went missing for a few hours as she enjoyed her air conditioning.  (The next time I saw her she had a jumper on.) 

7/4/12

The alarm went off at 6.00am so we could pack up and leave as early as possible.  We have 310kms to travel today and that is hugh for us.  Our destination is Mataranka, thermal pools and air conditioning.  It was 8.10am when the cars and caravans started to move.  We negoiated the sandy track without incident and flew up the highway at a constent speed of 94kph until Karen spotted a monument sign and said I want a photo of that.  It was the Charles TODD memorial.  He was the Post Master General of South Australia and responsible for the building of the Overland Telegraph line from Adelaide to Darwin.  We zoomed off again and made good time to Daly Waters.  We inspected the wartime airstrip and a hangar.  Inside the hangar are photos and written history of the airstrip.  Then it was onto the township of Daly Waters.  We were surprised to find that there were so many people in town.  We were even more surprised to find we were the oldest people in town.  The pub and caravan park had been taken over by young people for the Easter Weekend who intended attending the B&S Ball on Easter Saturday night.  We steeled ourselves and entered the Daly Waters Hotel making our way past a beavy of beauties and hunks all intending to drink the pub dry before sunset.  What an amazing place.  There is everything imaginable hung from all walls, ceilings and posts.  There were bras, undies, caps, old tools, coins, paper money from every country, Police and Military patches to name a few.  I had a light beer and Mary-Anne had a coke.  Karen had a sit in a rocking chair made from an old wooden beer keg.  We reluctantly had to leave Daly River because our destination for today is Mataranka. On the way to Mataramka we saw a sign stating Gorrie WW2 airstrip. I quickly turned left onto a dirt track and was immediately confronted by a large pool of water covering half the road. I radioed Mary-Anne and suggested that she stay near the road until I checked out the track. Luckily for her I did because about 200 metres further on there was another patch of water this time covering the whole track. I wanted Karen to walk through it but she was worried about crocodiles. So I had a decision to make, should I drive through and possibly get bogged in crocodile country or should I take the easy option and reverse the Prado and caravan along a narrow winding track back to the Stuart Highway? I took the easy option and reversed out. I think there are still some trees standing along the track. We arrived at Mataranka about 1.30pm and had a quick drive around town. We spotted a sign for the Bitter Springs thermal pools and went for a quick look. On the way we spotted two caravan parks and the first one looked great. After leaving Bitter Springs we went to the Territory Manor Caravan Park and booked in. We quickly setup and then donned our swimming togs for a swim in the Bitter Springs thermal pools. After a quick drive to the pools carpark, we walked along a scenic track to the pools themselves. The water was crystal clear and a constant 33degrees. The pools are fed from an underground aquafer that pours out 30.5million litres of water per day every day. The pools are really a type of creek leading from the aquafer to a river. They are deep and the water is fast flowing. But if you can hold on to something it is really refreshing. After our swim the girls went for a walk on a circular track that led back to the carpark. Then it was back to the caravan park for a relax and to cook tea.

                                                         Our first view of Ayers Rock

                                                   Karen and I racing up Ayers Rock

                                                                 The Olgas at sunset

                                                               Ayers Rock st sunrise

                                                     Roughing it while desert camping

                      Mary-Anne's view of the Devil's Marbles from her chair outside her caravan

                            My view of the Devil's Marbles from my chair outside my caravan

                                        Sunset at the Longreach Waterhole in Lake Woods

                                               Unbelievable bar at the Daly Waters Hotel

            A possible underage drinker wearing a hat and false beard at the bar of the Daly Waters Hotel

                        The Larrimah Hotel today.  It was Army Officer's Mess during WW2

22/3/12

The sounds of alarms woke occupants of both caravans this morning at the un-godly hour of 6.00am. The reason for this extraodinary event is that we are driving to the gorges of the East McDonnell ranges this morning. ETD is 7.30am. With stomachs full of coffee and tea it was all go at the appointed hour. We were on the road after a short detour to top up the fuel tanks and heading for the first stop - Emily Gap. It was a pleasant drive of about 10kms to Emily Gap. The air temperature in the shade was cool and the girls were rushing to find anything in the car they could put over themselves to ward off the breeze. I suggested a can each of Harden-up but they used the last can on the second day of the trip. The Emily and Jessie Gaps are small gaps in the Heavitree Range. It appears creeks have eroded the range over millions of years. The high sandstone walls of the range have been uplifted to form vertical lines of strata that become effected by wind and rain and large chunks have fallen away. The creek was dry but full of white sand. Every now and then Ghost Gums and River red gums break the scenery. Our next stop was at Jessie Gap. This is a similiar gap in the range to Emily. Again the creek had white sand and the high sandstone walls towered above us. It would be a great place to have a picnic and BBQ up some snags. We contiued on and our next stop was Corroboree Rock. A large clump of rock that was never used by them for a corroboree but it was named that anyway. It could be described as a miniture version of one of the Glass House Mountains. As a natural feature it was very impressive. After following the track that took us completely around Corroboree Rock so that we could see if from every angle it was next on to Trephina Gorge. We walked through a fairly rough track to the Gorge and it was worth it. If it wasn't so chilly the girls would have gone for a swim. Although Mary-Anne nearly did while showing us her skills as a broad jumper to cross a narrow stretch of water blocking the track on the sandy creek bed. The sides of the gorge towered above us and the river red gums were spectacular. We had lunch in the car park to regain our strength before heading off and driving to the Ross River Resort. It was unspectacular and a quick drive through was sufficient. We tried to drive to N'Dhala Gorge but the road was closed due to recent heavy rain. It was three tired nomads who eventually made it back to the caravan park that afternoon.

23/3/12

Today we headed west to visit the West McDonnell Ranges. To say the drive was scenic would be an understatement. We drove some 100kms to visit Ormiston Gorge first and planned to visit other gorges on the way back. The Ormiston Gorge was again breathtaking with sheer natural beauty. The rock features of the gorge walls here are similar to all the others we have seen and just as impressive. The shaded area at the water hole was cool but the girls said it was cold due to the breeze. We left and drove to Serpentine Gorge. The walk in to Serpentine Gorge was fairly tough over a rough track but the large water hole at the end with its River Red Gums and again towering rock walls was worth it. On the way back Karen suggested that we take the Lookout track to the lookout which was supposed to be one of the best views in Central Australia. Up and up we climbed on a track that wasn't a track. Mountain goats and sure footed rock wallabies were falling and slipping on the loose rocks and disappearing over the edge of the precipitous slope. We climbed for about an hour and the top was still a thousand feet above us. We all had legs of jelly and the thinning air was taking its toll. Snow caps could be seen on the peak and it was decided that the view could get stuffed (We certainly were!!) and the dangerous decent was undertaken. If not for our trusty walking poles to sure up our balance we all surely would have perished. It was hugs all round when we finally reached the foot of the mountain and the fairly rough track on the way in was like a super highway on the way out. After a short rest our next stop on the way back was Standley Chasm. We were confronted with a fee to exert ourselves to view this natural wonder and the girls said NO!! The girls couldn't believe when all the other gorges were free and on principal decided not to go. I looked at a photo of it instead. Then it was onto Simpsons Gap. After an easy short walk we were once again confronted by enormous rock walls on either side of the Gap. A water hole blocked the gap but the shade near the water was great. On the way home we stopped at the site of John Flynn's grave and monument. John Flynn realised how the outback people were suffering because inadequate access to health care. He founded the Royal Flying Doctor. The monument was very neatly kept and was part of a roadside rest area.

24/3/12

A not so early start today. The girls did some washing and then it was into town for some shopping. We all walked up Todd's Mall and once all the supplies were restocked it was onto the Alice Springs Desert Park. What an amazing place. There are areas set aside as 'Sand Country, Woodlands Country and Desert River Country'. They even have a salt pan, clay pan and a gypsum pan. All these areas are in one big circular walk and you move from one to the other. It has all been planted, constructed and cultivated from scratch. There are bird enclosures every now and then where you can see and identify some of the local species. The Nocturnal House is extremely well set out and the animals, snakes, lizards and insects that only appear under the cover of darkness are there to be seen. The climax of the day was the wild bird show. A park ranger presented on command different wild birds to perform for the audience. The wild birds, we found out later, were housed in cages behind the outdoor stage and were released for each segment of the performance. But that doesn't matter, it looked real and they performed well. The last performer was not of the feathered kind but an echidna. I never thought you could train one of them. It was a great day and well worth the entrance fee.

25/3/12

We left Alice Springs about 9.30am and headed south on the Stuart Highway. Our first stop was at a place called Stuart's Well. This is a roadhouse and caravan park. What a great place and the man who owns it is a character and would have many stories to tell. From there we continued south and turned onto the Lasseter Highway at Erldunda. We continued another 60 odd kilometres and stopped for the night at a rest area in sand and desert oak country. The rest area was called Kernot Range Rest Area, free camping and a lovely spot. Karen and I walked up our first ever RED sand hill. It is difficult to come to terms with the sand being a bright red and not white. I don't know what I prefer. It was a wonderful place with shade and a cool breeze. Maryanne put her shower/toilet tent up for the first time. Sleeping should be great with the breeze.

26/3/12

We left our desert oasis rest area at 10.10am and drove 165kms to the Kings Creek Station. It is a working cattle and camel station as well as a tourist orientated caravan and camping setup. The people are nice and friendly and full of advice. Our site is really lovely and we had a shed attached which had a large table and bench seats as well as a stainless steel bench and sink area and yellow fluorescent lights to help keep the insects at bay. Early in the afternoon we went for a drive to Kathleen Springs. It was short pleasant trip through more sandy counry. The walk to the Springs was a wheelchair friendly track and fairly easy going. The water hole at the end of the chasm appeared deep and was ringed by high rocks walls and River Red Gums. We couldn't go for a swim because the rainbow serpent lives in this one. It (the rainbow serpent) seems to live in all the most beautiful places. Funny that! Back at the Kings Creek Cattle Station the girls decided to try out the swimming pool because it was so hot. The water wasn't though! But it was very refreshing. We amused ourselves until 6.15pm and then went for a walk to Tank Hill to view the sunset to the west and the changing colours of the ranges to the north. Tank Hill was so high and the 360 degree view was endless. There were no clouds to enhance the sunset but the clear skies just lit up as the sun approached the horizon. The ranges became a bright deep red and the surrounding country below took on a golden appearance. When the sun had set the stars came out and the natural performance continued. Billons of tiny white lights lit up the sky but the standout performers were the stars of the Southern Cross. We all will sleep well tonight.

27/3/12

The alarm clocks went off at 5.00am this morning so we could get an early start and arrive at Kings Canyon before the sun had risen too far. We left at 6.10am and drove about 36kms to the car park at Kings Canyon. We had a choice of the Rim walk or the Creek walk. After seeing the start of the Rim walk disappear up a loose rocky-stepped very steep and high slope, we decided that the Creek walk would be more suited to our relaxed life style. I think we made the right choice. The walk again provided us with views of 270 metres high vertical rock walls and numerous River Red Gums, Coolibah, Ghost Gums and a very rocky creek bed. There were many very photogenic spots that caught our keen eyes and the cameras copped a hiding. At the end of the walk there is a raised platform that allows views to the end of the Canyon and up at the very massive and impressive North and South walls. It was the South wall that changed colour for us as the yellow sun peeked into the Canyon. Again the cameras were very active. Of all the gorges, gaps and chasms we have seen in the past few days Kings Canyon would have to be the Grand Daddy of them all without doubt. After walking back out we had a quick bite to eat and a cup of tea each. Then we drove further west about 6kms to the Kings Canyon Resort. We had a quick drive around and found a Shell Roadhouse opposite but still part of the resort complex. The petrol was cheap here at $2.09 per litre and I filled the Prado. The price of ULP at Kings Creek Station is $2.24 per litre and Diesel is $2.25 per litre. We had a quiet drive back to our caravans and once home the girls did some washing and started to cook a chocolate cake in Mary-Anne's Webber Baby Q while I updated the diary from the last few days and downloaded hundreds of photos.

28/3/12

We had a sleep-in this morning and took our time packing up. We didn't have to be out of the caravan park until 10.00am and we only had about 100kms to travel. We left right on 10am and had a leisurely drive to the Mt Connor Lookout. It's hard to believe what such a hugh mesa would be doing all by itself in the middle of such a vast flat landscape. However I'm glad it chose where it did. Mt Connor is a fair distance from the lookout but it is still large and impressive. Just imagine what it would look like up close. We took a short walk up a red sand hill, on the opposite side of the highway from the lookout and were greeted by the vista of a large salt lake. This contrasted with the redness of the sand. What a great spot. If you looked north the salt lake was in view and to the south was Mt Connor. After soaking up the scenery we decided to travel back 7kms to the Curtin Springs East Rest Area. It is a large rest area with two water tanks and two under cover picnic tables but no toilet. There was no one there and we had the pick of the camping spots. There was not a cloud in the sky and the solar panels were smiling from handle to handle when we put them out. It was about 1.00pm when we set up camp and we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon soaking up the shade from our awnings and the cool desert breeze. It was a different story if you were in the sun where the afternoon temperature would have been in excess of 40 degrees.

                                                      Emily Gorge East McDonnell Ranges

                                                Corroboree Rock East McDonnell Ranges

                                               Trephina Gorge East McDonnell Ranges

                                             Ormiston Gorge West McDonnell Ranges

                                              Simpsons Gap West McDonnell Ranges

                             Camped under the Desert Oaks on the way the Kings Canyon NT

                                     Sunset from Tank Hill at Kings Creek Cattle Station NT

                                                    Part of the track to Kings Canyon

South Wall of Kings Canyon at sunrise

                                      Mt Connor from the lookout on the Lasseter Highway

                                         Salt lake behind sand dune at Mt Connor Lookout                             

20/3/2012

It was great sleeping last night. There was a strong cool breeze blowing through the windows all night. None of us had to use the 12v fans. It was slightly cloudy but almost perfect solar panel conditions when we woke. We left the panels out as long as possible before setting off and heading to a World War 11 staging camp a few kilometres south of where we camped last night. It was called the New Barrow Staging Camp. It housed approximately 1000 troops at any one time while waiting to be sent to battle fields further north. It was wonderful to walk through the low scrub and discover concrete slabs and evidence of past activity. It is hard to believe that it was 70 odd years ago that this place was a hive of activity. From there we drove to the Central Mount Stuart Memorial. This is the place where John MacDouall Stuart climbed Central Mount Stuart and declared it to be the geographic centre of Australia. We had lunch and a cold drink (non alcoholic) and it was on the road again to Ti Tree a small aboriginal township. We refuelled at the Mobil Road House then drove a further 45kms to Prowse Gap Rest Area. This is where we will spend the last night before arriving at Alice Springs tomorrow, hopefully. It is a secluded rest area separated from the highway by a row of low shrubs. There is a toilet and a water tank. The solar panels are out and working overtime in the bright sunshine.

21/3/2012

We were on the road, early for us at 9.15am and drove a whole 10kms and stopped at a historical hand dug well. The well was dug by Ned Ryan in 1889. The stone works are extraodinary. Across the highway is the historic ruins of the Glen Maggie homestead. The roof has gone but the stone work is still in good condition. It is amasing what people built in the middle of nowhere over one hundred years ago. Many of the materials were gathered locally and others transported thousands of miles. It was back on the road and a short distance later the girls wanted to call in and see the township of Aierlion.  There is not much there but the most striking feature is the statues of an aboriginal male, female and young child. They must be twelve feet high. Then it was another short drive of 30kms and we had to stop and see the Tropic of Capricorn Rest Area. We also had lunch there. By this time we had been travelling about 2 hours and travelled a total of 50kms. I started to think we would not make the 120kms to Alice Springs today. The girls were given an ultimatum - NO MORE STOPS!!!! It worked and we arrived at Alice Springs at about 12.30pm. We had a quick drive around town to check things out and the girls went beserk when they saw a K Mart. It was then onto the caravan Park. The name is great - G'Day Mate caravan park. $30 per night is not too bad and the park is great. There is green grass and plenty of shade trees. The best thing is air conditioning for sleeping. After tea we went to Anzac Hill to view the sunset. What a spectular view. We were as high as the surrounding McDonnell Ranges and you could see the whole of town and the surrounding country.

                                  Explanation of the use of the camp and a map of it's layout

                                            A heavy steel drum probably used to boil water

                                                    The Central Mount Stuart Memorial

                                                              Wording on the plaque

                                                     Sunset at Prowse Gap Rest Area

                      Statue of female and child aborigine.  Couldn't show the male he was rude.

                                                       Stone work at Ned Ryan's well

                                                   Ruins of Glen Maggie Homestead

                                              Tropic of Capricorn north of Alice Springs

                                               Sunset from Anzac Hill at Alice Springs