Saturday, 7 April 2012

We have been out of range for the past 9 days.  Our trip report is below and photos will follow.  Happy reading.


29/3/12

We left our desert oasis about 9.30am and headed west towards Ayers Rock. On the way we called into Curtin Springs cattle station. It also has a motel setup and paid for powered sites as well as free camping non powered sites for tents and caravans, no water and showers cost $3 per person. I tried to buy some beer but a six pack was worth $36.00. Karen gave the approval for a 2lt cask of fruity wine for $25.00. I'm starting to dislike the Northern (Teatotlers) Territory. We continued on and eventually arrived at the Ayers Rock Resort and Caravan Park about midday. After booking in we quickly set up on our allotted sites and had a quick bite to eat. Our first impression of Ayers Rock was it's not that big. However we were stunned by its massive size when we were standing at the foot of it. We drove around the whole of Ayers Rock, walked up half way to the top (the heat and slippery steepness won out), we then drove around Ayers Rock and then did the Kuniya Walk to Mutitjulu Waterhole. It was only a 1km return walk.  We left Ayers Rock and drove 50kms to the Olgas. We walked the Walpa Gorge track for a total of 2.6kms through blazing heat and flies. The view at the end was enjoyable but not as spectacular as some of the gorges in the McDonnell Ranges. The Olgas are 36 separate rocks (domes) and the tallest is 200 metres higher than Ayers Rock and they are just as impressive. But not being one single rock they don't receive the same notoriety. We decided to stay and watch the sunset at the Olgas. Tomorrow we will watch both the sunrise and sunset at Ayers Rock. It was late when we returned to the caravans and we were all tired. We ate an easy tea and retired for the night after a couple of wines (God help me!!!).

30/3/12

Why does the sun have to rise soooo early. The alarms went off at 5.00am in both caravans and we were on the road to the Ayers Rock sunrise viewing area by 6.00am. When we arrived every Japanese and European tourist in Australia was already there. There was even a group of sun worshippers chanting as the sun rose above the horizon. I might add that there were some Australians but we were way outnumbered. Ayers Rock changed from a dark brownish colour to bright shades of red as the sun's rays danced across its many exposed facets while areas of shaded rock contrasted with darker colours. The event was outlasted by the sunworshippers who were still chanting and playing their ridiculous bongo drums long after the last rock watcher had left. We drove to the Mala Walk car park and joined 6 Tour bus loads of tourists on a 2km return walk to the Kantju Gorge. On this walk you are right at the foot of the Rock and our necks became sore from looking up to try to see the top of Ayers Rock. There are many photogenic spots on this walk and the cameras copped a hiding again. Thank God for digital cameras and large memory cards. The walk ended at a quaint waterhole at the end of a small gorge at the foot of towering sandstone walls. After the walk we returned to the caravan park where we relaxed and sheltered from the heat for a couple of hours. The girls heard there were shops in town and immediately dragged me kicking and screaming with them. There was an upside, Karen said I could check out the beer prices at the pub while we were there. That was an offer I couldn't refuse. With half the shop bought out it was onto the Hotel. My good mood was short lived. Beer could only be purchased by Kerry Packer or Rupert Murdoch as they are the only people I know with enough money to be able to afford a carton of beer. I couldn't even afford a 6 pack at the going rate of $38.00. I couldn't even buy a cask of wine because they aren't allowed to sell them because you know whos live near by. Tourists and non indigenous residents should be exempt from the Federal Government's stupid policy. It was back to the caravans to unload the groceries. Then it was out to the sunset viewing area to witness the changing colours of Ayers Rock on the opposite side. We were not disappointed. It did in fact change colour from a dirty brown to bright red a number of times. It was all over by 7.30pm and it was back to the caravan park for an early night. We head off in the morning towards Alice Springs.

31/3/12

With all good intentions of leaving early it was 10.00am when Mary-Anne was finally ready. She had three baths after she got up and before we left. I have never seen a more cleaner person in my entire life. Our first stop on the way back was at Curtin Springs Road House for a pit stop and to buy a cask of fruity wine. A man cannot live by Billy Tea alone. It was a non stop drive to Erlduna at the intersection of the Lasseter and Stuart Highways. There is a Shell Road House with Cabins and a Caravan Park. We had hot chippies!!! The second I've had since we've been away. Our next stop was 30kms up the Stuart Highway at a roadside rest area called Desert Oaks Rest Area. We plan to spend two nights here to relax and recover from the last hectic week. It is a great spot with shady desert oaks and desert bloodwood trees. It was clear skies and few clouds. The solar panels almost jumped out of each vehicle by themselves with excitement. They will be worked overtime in the next day and a half. I can't keep typing as I have to relax. See you tomorrow!!!!!!!!!

1/4/12

I woke this morning to a loud male voice talking to Karen. I came out to check and found a local character had pulled into the rest area and wanted to burn some of his rubbish. Guess where he wanted to burn his stuff. You guessed it, in the wood BBQ about 6 feet from the caravan. He reminded me of Talc Alf (Google the name, it is a real person) and as he was a Vietnam Veteran I didn't have the heart to tell him to piss off. We all chatted for about an hour (I hadn't been to the toilet yet and I was busting) and then he left, leaving only a memory of a phamton visitor and the smell of burnt cardboard in the caravan. The girls amused themselves by reading books, washing and ordering me around. I hid most of the day behind the cars pretending to be checking the solar panels, as every time I showed my face I got a job to do. It's great just relaxing in 50 degree direct sunlight. The girls don't know how lucky they are under the awnings with a cool breeze, with their feet up and reading. The rest of the day was uneventful and my tan is coming along well.

2/4/12

Karen and I were up early and went for a walk up and over red sand hills and along the Stuart Highway. We tried to be as quiet as church mice when we got back so we would not wake Mary-Anne. But my heavy breathing from exhaustion was rattling her windows and she woke up again without a sleep in. We had breakfast and packed up and headed once again for Alice Springs (The Wowser's Capital of the World as I was to find out). We arrived at 11.00am and it was straight to Woolworths so the girls could buy some groceries and for me it was to the Liquor Barn attached to Woolies to buy a cask of wine. To my horror, it didn't open until 2pm!!!! What the #@%*!!! That was 3 hours away and we wanted to do a bit more travelling after leaving Alice Springs. We had lunch after the girls had finished shopping, and I decided I would hang around until 2pm and the girls would drive 31kms north to the Tropic of Capricorn Rest Area and setup. We both refuelled before the girls left and I proceeded to wait for the appointed opening hour. It was as if time stood still. I thought I had been there for 3 days when 2pm came around and I was first in the Liquor shop when the door rolled up. I walked around and around and not one cask of wine could I find. I finally found a worker and inquired where he kept them and he told me they don't sell them. I could feel the smoke coming out my ears and asked where I could buy one. He said the Todd Hotel at the end of the Todd Mall. I walked for half an hour and could not find this mysterious pub. I walked back to the car and caravan, that I had parked in a dead end street by accident and eventually got on my way. By chance, when I was travelling down a road I hadn't driven on before, I found a Hotel and drove in. I selected two 2lt casks of wine and went to pay for them. The attended stated that I couldn't buy them until 6pm. I went off like a sky rocket!!!!! I asked what time I could buy a carton of beer and he said now. I should have bought beer in the first place but the Nancy Territory takes some getting used to. Eventually I arrived at the Tropic of Capricorn Rest Area at about 3.30pm and had to wait until 6pm until I could enjoy a cold rationed beer. I LOVE QUEENSLAND!!!!!

3/4/12

After a good night's sleep, thanks to Mary-Anne lending us her spray water bottle, we all had breakfast and were on the road by 9.15am. We plan to spend the night at the Devils Marbles National Park and it is 360kms away. That is a big day for us! We zoomed along at 90kph until we reached Prowse Gap rest area and the call of nature overtook us. We had a short stop and then it was on the road again until we stopped about 12.30pm at Barrow Creek Road House for lunch. It was a fairly short drive from Barrow Creek to the Devils Marbles camping ground and we arrived to find that half the sites were taken up already. We selected a good solar friendly spot and positioned the caravans parallel so the awnings were just overlaping and this provided great shade and respite from the 38 degree temperature (in the shade!). The girls washed clothes and then became engrossed in their books for the rest of the afternoon. I checked the solar panels as usual.

4/4/12

We left The Devil's Marbles at 9.15am and had an uneventful drive to Tennant Creek. There we planned to refuel and Karen wanted to buy a couple of items from the grocery store. It must have been pension day because all the old beat up cars were lined up at the garage when we arrived. After waiting for 20 minutes for the last heat of crap to leave, it broke down blocking the bowser. I said to Karen: 'This is not good. Golly gosh we have been waiting for so long and now this happens. What an inconvenience.' (That's not what he said. He had a huge wobbly and no golly goshes came out of his mouth. I will let you all use your imagination.) We then left that garage and went to the BP and lined up again only to find when we eventually got to the bowsers that no cards were accepted. I said to Karen: 'Golly gosh we are having some bad luck here. Let's try another garage.' We then drove to the Mobil at the other end of town and filled up without incident. Karen said to me as we were leaving the garage: 'Stop talking like a methodist minister or I will ride with Mary-Anne for the rest of the day!!' What a thrill it was to leave Tennant Creek and rediscover ourselves in the vast empty wilderness that lay ahead. We had a quick stop at the Three Ways roadhouse and I recharged my mobile phone via internet. Then we were off again and stopped about 30kms up the Stuart Highway at a Rest Area called Attack Creek where John McDouall Stuart was attacked by people from Tennant Creek when he came through in 1862. We'd already had our experience with them and expected a quiet afternoon and night. The girls washed again and I did you know what. What a life!!!

5/4/12

We were all up early this morning for no particular reason. We eventually packed up and, for some unknown reason, we left at our usual time of 9.15am. I keep asking why we can't get away any earlier and the girls can't answer the question. Anyway we headed north and stopped at Renner Springs Roadhouse for a look. It is a self contained roadhouse with a pub, motel and caravan park. We found out there are 11 people living permanently at the roadhouse in the middle of nowhere. Karen couldn't work out why anyone would want to live there. I could, if I owned the pub!!! We left the 11 people to themselves and continued our drive north. Our next stop was at Elliot with a much larger population than Renner Springs. Come to think of it, Renner Springs is between Elliot and Tennant Creek. I know now why the 11 people are living at Renner Springs. We had lunch a short distance from the Police Station under a large shady tree. The temperature was 38 degrees in the shade and 50 something in the sun. Our destination for today is the Longreach Waterhole in Lake Woods. The turnoff is a short distance out of Elliot and a bull dust track is supposed to head westward for 12kms to the waterhole. We didn't know what lay ahead so we ploughed on through the swirling clouds of bull dust and corrugations. At one point there was a Y junction and I took the left track but missed the sign saying 'This Way', meaning the other track. It quickly became apparent why we shouldn't be on this track with a 2 tonne caravan acting as a sand anchor in the deep powdery bull dust!!! A quick stop was made without using the brakes and it was 'ALL HANDS ON DECK' to let the tyres down. Well the only hands letting my tyres down were mine. Karen and Mary-Anne were standing in the shade of their parisols with looks on their faces as if their last tea bag had been used. With less air in the tyres it was possible to reverse out without incident and it was full speed ahead again, this time with Mary-Anne in the lead. We found a great spot right next to the lake and positioned the caravans parallel so we could maximise the shade from the awnings. It is Holy Thursday and families from nearby properties are also turning up with their ski boats to have fun on the water. It is such a nice place we plan to spend 2 days here and just relax. Again there is no internet or phone reception but the sunset is great.

6/4/12

After a restful night we awoke to a wonderful sunrise and with it the heat. After breakfast I setup my portable pump and collected some lake water for washing. Mary-Anne, Karen and I made use of the pump and sprayed our heads with cool water. The girls did some more washing again. The rest of the day was spent sitting around under shady trees and only moving when the shade moved. I think it is hotter today than yesterday. I pleaded with Karen and she gave permission for Mary-Anne and I to pull out the generators and fire them up.  I spent the rest of the day inside the caravan with a cold breeze blowing over me.  Mary-Anne also went missing for a few hours as she enjoyed her air conditioning.  (The next time I saw her she had a jumper on.) 

7/4/12

The alarm went off at 6.00am so we could pack up and leave as early as possible.  We have 310kms to travel today and that is hugh for us.  Our destination is Mataranka, thermal pools and air conditioning.  It was 8.10am when the cars and caravans started to move.  We negoiated the sandy track without incident and flew up the highway at a constent speed of 94kph until Karen spotted a monument sign and said I want a photo of that.  It was the Charles TODD memorial.  He was the Post Master General of South Australia and responsible for the building of the Overland Telegraph line from Adelaide to Darwin.  We zoomed off again and made good time to Daly Waters.  We inspected the wartime airstrip and a hangar.  Inside the hangar are photos and written history of the airstrip.  Then it was onto the township of Daly Waters.  We were surprised to find that there were so many people in town.  We were even more surprised to find we were the oldest people in town.  The pub and caravan park had been taken over by young people for the Easter Weekend who intended attending the B&S Ball on Easter Saturday night.  We steeled ourselves and entered the Daly Waters Hotel making our way past a beavy of beauties and hunks all intending to drink the pub dry before sunset.  What an amazing place.  There is everything imaginable hung from all walls, ceilings and posts.  There were bras, undies, caps, old tools, coins, paper money from every country, Police and Military patches to name a few.  I had a light beer and Mary-Anne had a coke.  Karen had a sit in a rocking chair made from an old wooden beer keg.  We reluctantly had to leave Daly River because our destination for today is Mataranka. On the way to Mataramka we saw a sign stating Gorrie WW2 airstrip. I quickly turned left onto a dirt track and was immediately confronted by a large pool of water covering half the road. I radioed Mary-Anne and suggested that she stay near the road until I checked out the track. Luckily for her I did because about 200 metres further on there was another patch of water this time covering the whole track. I wanted Karen to walk through it but she was worried about crocodiles. So I had a decision to make, should I drive through and possibly get bogged in crocodile country or should I take the easy option and reverse the Prado and caravan along a narrow winding track back to the Stuart Highway? I took the easy option and reversed out. I think there are still some trees standing along the track. We arrived at Mataranka about 1.30pm and had a quick drive around town. We spotted a sign for the Bitter Springs thermal pools and went for a quick look. On the way we spotted two caravan parks and the first one looked great. After leaving Bitter Springs we went to the Territory Manor Caravan Park and booked in. We quickly setup and then donned our swimming togs for a swim in the Bitter Springs thermal pools. After a quick drive to the pools carpark, we walked along a scenic track to the pools themselves. The water was crystal clear and a constant 33degrees. The pools are fed from an underground aquafer that pours out 30.5million litres of water per day every day. The pools are really a type of creek leading from the aquafer to a river. They are deep and the water is fast flowing. But if you can hold on to something it is really refreshing. After our swim the girls went for a walk on a circular track that led back to the carpark. Then it was back to the caravan park for a relax and to cook tea.


                                                         Our first view of Ayers Rock


                                                   Karen and I racing up Ayers Rock


                                                                 The Olgas at sunset


                                                               Ayers Rock st sunrise


                                                     Roughing it while desert camping


                      Mary-Anne's view of the Devil's Marbles from her chair outside her caravan


                            My view of the Devil's Marbles from my chair outside my caravan


                                        Sunset at the Longreach Waterhole in Lake Woods


                                               Unbelievable bar at the Daly Waters Hotel


            A possible underage drinker wearing a hat and false beard at the bar of the Daly Waters Hotel


                        The Larrimah Hotel today.  It was Army Officer's Mess during WW2

1 comment:

  1. Hi Mick,

    Looks like you guys are having a great time, although I don't know what is going on with you and that "Fruity Wine", sounds a bit gay if you ask me, lol. Take Care Craig

    ReplyDelete