21/4/12

Another lazy morning was spent at the caravan park. After lunch we all went to the shopping centre at Casaurina and stocked up on things, especially grog. Then it was back to the caravan park. Karen organised a caravan washing party and Mary-Anne and I were invited. After that I fired up the computer and updated our diary. This evening the girls craved something extra in their lives. God provided divine intervention and instead of chocolate they went to church while I received some inspiration from 6 cans of VB.

22/4/12

Today was one of those dreadful days that we all hate - an early wake up by the alarm. Today we planned to go to Litchfield National Park and see everything. We were on the road by 7.30am and our first stop was the town of Batchelor. We stopped at the Information Centre but no one was home. Our next stop after entering the park was the Magnetic Termite Mounds. These little creatures are busy up this way building earth mounds about 2 metres tall. It was fascinating to watch the overseas visitors going ape over these precious little buggers. They obviously haven't had their homes invaded by termites. But I suppose these termites aren't too bad as they eat grass not wood. I might take a mound home and put it in the back yard so I don't have to mow when I get home!!! Next it was a stop at the Buley Rockholes. A short walk alongside a spring fed stream brought us to a number of rockholes that were proving popular with young and old alike on such a hot day. The water was crystal clear and the sun reflected off the golden coloured rocks under the water. Our next stop was the Florence Falls. After walking down 135 steps to the creek floor we were greated by a wonderful waterfall surrounded by a dark green leafy curtain of rainforest plants. It would have been a great place for a swim after the steps but we forgot our togs again. Thanks to a Tour Guide we met at the bottom we made our way back up via a windy track that meandered its way alongside and across the creek until we eventually came out of the leafy canopy at the car park. (We weren't really looking forward to climbing the 135 steps back up again!) Next on the agenda was Tolmer Falls. We could not go to the bottom of the falls here because of the endangered Ghost and Orange Horseshoe bats. Instead, it was along a track to a vantage point above the falls to view the water cascading down into the creek below. Then it was onto Wangi Falls. Due to recent flooding and the possibility of salt water crocodiles sneaking into the waterhole at the bottom of the falls no swimming was allowed. We gazed at the falls for some time and I still can't get over how clear the water is up here. Karen was itching to go for a walk and, instead of the 3km loop track, Mary-Anne and I agreed to go on the SHORT Tree Top walk. Where are the tops of trees? That's right, way to buggery up in the air as we found out after climbing a never ending set of twisting steps that left us breathless and with wobbly legs. 'What's the view like?' a fit young lad asked as he vaulted up the last of the steps and lept onto the viewing platform. With my last remaining breath while lying postrate on a bench I said: 'I don't know. Hopefully I'll be able to tell you in about an hour.' After recouperating we all had a look at the view and wished we had bought a chainsaw with us. We were not quite at the tree tops and all we could see were branches and leaves. With regained strength and vitality we skipped down the stairs and enjoyed a hearty lunch in the picnic grounds while still sweating in the 95% humidity. It was a long and tiring drive home but I was kept awake by the snoring of my two travelling companions. At some point near Strauss Airfield one of them snorted so loud that they both woke up. Neither would admit to being the snorting culprit though.

23/4/12

Today we said farewell to Darwin as our destination for today is Kakadu. We left at 10am and drove to Humpty Doo. It is a neat little town and we had a quick drive around. One thing we did notice are the hugh mango farms that stretch from Humpty Doo to the start of the Kakadu National Park. The people in Darwin just love their mangoes. Our next stop was at the Window to the Wetlands. It is a building set on top of a small hill that overlooks extensive non-Kakadu wetlands. It also has information and displays on all types of plants and creatures that can be found in the Top End Wetlands. After leaving the Windows we had lunch in the carpark at Corroboree Park which is a roadhouse and pub on the Kakadu Highway. Our next stop was at the Mamukala Wetlands and Bird Hide. We had no need to hide, or for Mary-Anne to whisper, as the birds have not arrived yet. There were about 6 ducks and a Jesus bird to amuse us. I looked for crocodiles but they were hiding too. We stopped at the Bowali Visitor Centre at Jabiru and paid our park admission fee of $25.00 each. Then we drove to the Aurora Caravan Park in Jabiru and booked two powered sites preferably with mosquitoes. We were not disappointed as the mosquitoes came to visit as we set up in an idyllic green grassed oasis. We must be early in the season as there were only two other caravans and a small tent in the whole caravan park. No wonder the mosquitoes were so friendly - they must have been lonely.

24/4/12

Today was a day for sightseeing and we visited the township of Jabiru first. The first thing we saw was the Bakery and we all had an authentic Kakadu sausage roll for breakfast. What a life!!! We headed north towards Ubirr. On the way we were confronted by a flooded section of the road. The indicators showed the depth was 400mm and after checking for crocodiles and making sure the windows were up and all doors were locked we slowly drove through the water without incident. A short distance further on there was another lot of water accross the road. This time there was a bend in the road and it was almost impossible to see where the road was under the 400mm deep water. With Karen securely roped to the bull bar we entered the water and followed her directions safely to the other side. On the way we diverted and had a look at the Merl Camping grounds where we were initially going to camp. Thank god we changed our minds. There were crocodile signs everywhere and the water had only recently receded. If we were crocodile hunters it would have been a great place to camp. We left Merl, and not long after, came to the East Alligator River with a crossing (Cahills Crossing) and boat ramp. The crossing was 800mm underwater and the road to Oenpelli was cut. The water again was crystal clear but there were no crocodiles in sight. We continued on to Ubirr and put our walking shoes on again so the girls could view some ancient graffitti. It was hot and humid as we negoiated the track to a large rock that had some drawings on it. Mary-Anne was over the moon with delight to see graffitti on a rock instead of on a railway carriage. The walk continued to the base of a sandstone escarpment. To my horror there were arrows pointing up the sheer walls to a lookout at the top. With the aid of my trusty hiking pole the ascent was a breeze and the 360 degree view was unbelievable. We were looking down over vast neverending wetlands in one direction then onto other large sandstone outcrops and in the distance to the east was the Arnem Land plateau. We were saturated from perspiration when we eventually arrived back at the car park and couldn't wait to turn the engine on and feel the cool air conditioning. We drove back to Jabiru and had lunch in the park land at Lake Jabiru. Then we drove to Nourlangie Rock so Mary-Anne and Karen could see more art sites. It was still hot and humid but we went on a 1.5km walk anyway to make sure our sweat glands were still working. To our delight, there was another lookout on the track that required gut busting effort over fallen rocks to reach. On the climb our minds were occupied by attempts to pronounce the name of the lookout. It is GUNWARRDEHWARRDE. Mary-Anne said the person who named it had probably drunk a couple of flaggons. The view again was spectacular and worth the effort. After trekking back to the car park we drove back to the caravan park. The girls had a swim to cool off and I had 6 cans of VB.

25/4/12

Today we leave Jabiru and move onto Cooinda which is only 54kms down the highway towards Pine Creek. We booked into the Cooinda Lodge Caravan Park and again there were not many other caravans or campers there. The grounds are filled with green grass and large shady trees. We enjoyed a lazy day and booked a 4.30pm sunset cruise on the Yellow Water Wetlands. We boarded a bus at 4.15pm and were driven to the cruise terminal. Most of the road to the terminal is still under water and there is evidence of how deep the water there was a couple of weeks ago. We were let off on dry land and walked along crocodile proof walkways to our cruise boat. The cruise lasted 2 hours and we sailed along the South Alligator River and through flooded wet lands. To our delight it was only a few minutes into the cruise when we saw our first live wild crocodile. It was a large male who did not want to be disturbed and submerged quickly. It was not long before another was sighted and the Captain nudged the boat up slowly for all to have a close look at the monster. There were not many birds in the wetlands and we were told it was too early in the season. But when there are crocodiles around who wants to look at birds? We sighted a large male crocodile slowly swimming near the water's edge and the Captain positioned the boat a short distance away from him and kept pace with him for about a hundred metres. What a thrill to be so close to a man eater and to be able to watch him swim along effortlessly. The boat slowed and the crocodile drew ahead of us. We watched as a smaller male crocodile came racing from the other side of the waterway to challenge the large one. I was amazed to discover that even crocodiles have some sense. As soon as the small crocodile got close enough to see how big the other was he pulled up quickly and backed off in a hurry. Unfortunatley, all good things must come to an end and we were back at the terminal. This was a highlight of our trip so far. Mary-Anne and I have wanted to see a live crocodile in the wild all our lives and today we saw about 8.

26/4/12

Today is a nothing day. We decided to stay another day at Cooinda and visit all the sights within driving distance. However we were told that all the places of interest are still closed due to flooding or flood damage. Not to worry - it gives us a chance to relax and catch up on things. Mary-Anne cooked a chocolate cake in her Weber Baby Q and we had a BBQ lunch.  Late in the afternoon we all went for a walk to the home billabong at the resort.  This is where the boats for the Yellow Water cruises leave during the wet season.  We looked hard but could not see any crocodiles.

                                          Large termite mound at Litchfield National Park

                                                       One of the Bluey Rockholes

                                                Florence Falls at Litchfield National Park

                                                Tolmer Falls at Litchfield National Park

                                             View from Nardab lookout at Ubirr Kakadu

                                          'Oh what a feeling......' on top of Nardab lookout

                               Large crocodile doing its own thing at Yellow Water Billabong

                                                     'If I don't move no one will see me'

13/4/12

We had a sleep in this morning and during the morning the girls caught up on a couple of days' washing. Karen and I also cooked a chocolate cake in our crab BBQ. Around 1.00pm we went for a drive. Firstly we went to the Railway Museum and were pleasantly surprised by the quality and quantity of exhibits on display in a number of Sidney Williams sheds. There was everything from anything to do with trains to fragments of exploded bombs and a rusted .50 cal machine gun. We spent over an hour walking around and viewing the exhibits. Then it was time to move on. We took the tourist road from Adelaide River which is the Old Stuart Highway and it leads to the turnoff to Litchfield National Park and a few other places of interest. Our first stop was at Robin Falls. The track into the so called falls is a rough dirt track that follows a creek. Eventually we came to a couple of cleared areas where tents could be set up. We took a short walk to the creek and we discovered crystal clear running water that begged for us to jump in.   A swim would have been great in the 38 degree heat but the girls didn't have their bikinis and refused to skinny dip. I had my footy shorts on but I was quickly informed if they couldn't swim neither could I. So it was back to the car and back onto the Old Stuart Highway. We drove as far as the turnoff to Litchfield National Park and a sign advised that many of the roads from there were still closed. We turned around and drove back to the caravan park.

14/4/12

We left Adelaide River at our usual time of 9.30am and continued our northward journey. We passed a couple of WW2 airstrips that ran parallel with the highway. They were Livingstone and Strauss airfields. Strauss had information boards and large cutouts of fighter aircraft on display and I couldn't resist the urge to stop and have a closer look and take some photos. Karen and Mary-Anne finally dragged me away and we drove to our caravan park, Aurora Shady Glen at Winnellie. It is a nice caravan park with plenty of large shady trees. The only downside is the place is nearly full and our relaxed camping style is being cramped. It's only for 8 days and the airconditioning is great. In the afternoon we went for a drive to the City Centre and found the Information Centre. We then walked in the blazing sun, without my hat, to the Cenotaph in Bi-Centennial Park. It was once Darwin Oval and it was from here that some of the first shots were fired against the attacking Japanese aircraft on 19 February 1942. From the city centre we relied on the GPS to direct us to the Casuarina Shopping Centre. It is the largest shopping Centre I have been in. It makes Chermside shopping Centre look like a corner store. We stocked up on groceries and the first affordable alcohol since leaving Queensland. Unfortunately, late in the afternoon I succumbed to the ravages of the burning tropical sun and heat and was struck down by malarial dysentry and sun stroke. Luckily for me I have the ability to self diagnose and prescribed a long lie down under direct airconditioning and 10 cans of XXXX Gold to replace lost fluids.

15/4/12

My previous afternoon's diagnosis and corrective action proved accurate and I woke this morning firing on all cylinders. Mary-Anne wanted to buy some lace material to replace a couple of worn curtains in her van and I wanted a couple of computer fans for the back of the 3 way fridge. I dropped the girls off at Spotlight and I went to Jaycar. Then it was onto the Nightcliffe Markets where Darwin's hippies and druggies try to sell their rubbish. After an hour of smelling incense and some other strange smelling smoke we all became a little peckish. I was craving a sausage roll and began my search. I quickly discovered that sausage rolls are not cooked in a wok and all the food on offer would be normal fare in Bangcock. I settled on the only edible food fit for human consumption on display in all the 3^rd world eateries and that was 2 fish cakes. Mary-Anne, who would not be out of place in Phuket, had some fried rice and Karen bought 2 spring rolls. Our feet were getting sore and we were all eventually hippied out so we left and returned to the caravan park. I started fitting the fans, Mary-Anne started fitting her curtains and Karen washed both cars.

16/4/12

Today we went to the Australian Aviation Heritage Centre. There is a large aircraft hangar filled with every type of aircraft. The biggest and most prominent exhibit is a huge B52 Stratobomber. It may seem unbelievable but it is easy not to notice the B52 for some time as you walk around and look at all the planes and exhibits that are at eye level. When you take the time to look up you realise that everything you have been looking at is standing under the B52. Yes it really is that BIG!!! It is simply an amazing place to visit. Then we drove to Charles Darwin National Park where we saw numerous reinforced concrete and steel ammunition bunkers build during WW2. Then we drove around Darwin Harbour and saw thousands of Mary-Anne's favourite trees – the mangrove. She was over the moon with joy. We also found the oil storage tunnels that were built during the war but unfortunately we arrived after closing time. Across the road from the oil tunnels we discovered a wave pool and safe swimming area.

17/4/12

This morning we drove to Fanny Bay and walked along the beach in front of the Darwin Boat Club. Not far from the Boat Club we found the Old Fanny Bay Gaol. We wandered through the cells and buildings until we found the Infirmery where a number of prisoners were hung. The gallows and drop pit were on display for all to see. Mary-Anne fainted when I told her what the large overhead wooden beam and the pit were used for. She thought the pit was where they changed the oil and the wooden beam was where they hoisted motors and gear boxes from. We dragged her outside to the fresh hot air and she eventually came to. Then we continued on and ended up at the Darwin Military Museum. There are two intact very large concrete gun emplacements, one outside the museum grounds and one inside. There is a visual display area inside the museum building and many exhibits on display in the grounds. The standout exhibit is the large concrete gun emplacement that even has a replica 9.2 inch naval gun in position. After we finished at the museum we drove to the Casaurina Shopping Centre. Then it was back to the caravan park for a cold beer or 10.

18/4/12

The morning was spent doing nothing for a change. Karen dropped a tooth filling a few days ago and had a 12 midday dentist appointment. We dropped Karen at the dentist and Mary-Anne and I drove to Nightcliff beach for lunch. Then it was back to collect Karen and we went for a drive through Nightcliff and followed the coast to Lee Point. We eventually made our way back to the caravan park and enjoyed the afternoon doing odd jobs or just nothing at all.

19/4/12

Another day of little to do as Karen had another dentist appointment at 1.15pm. We dropped her off at Nightcliff and Mary-Anne and I did a little exploring. Much of the area from yesterday was covered again but it helped to fill in the time. After Karen was finished we set the GPS to find Mindil Beach. This is where there are markets during the tourist season but fortunately for me the tourist season hasn't started yet!!!! We had a short walk along the beach keeping watch for sea snakes, crocodiles, sharks and box jelly fish. After Mindil we found the Darwin Museum and Art Gallery. We all wanted to view the Cyclone Tracy exhibition. Admission was free for a change but no back packs or cameras are allowed inside. We eventually found the Cyclone Tracy exhibit and found it fascinating. There were hundreds of photos of the devastation as well as audio and visual displays. The audio exhibit was great. Karen and I entered a completely darkened room where the sounds of 260kph winds and the scraping of twisted corrugated iron were ear shattering. Something touched Karen on the head and the deafening sounds of Cyclone Tracy's fury were suddenly drowned out by a blood curdling scream and the killer thud of an open hand haymaker. After I came to I ventured into the land, sea and air exhibit that displayed all the nasty biting, stinging and man eating creatures that share the Darwin area with us humans. (If I was allowed to have a camera I could have left a photo of Karen to add to the killer collection.) I cannot believe how anyone could have survived in the early days as there is not one creature up here that wouldn't try to kill or eat you alive given half a chance. After the museum,we decided to drive along the BiCentennial Esplanade and were lucky enough to spot the entrance to the Aquascene where wild fish come to be hand fed every day. We paid the admission and went to the feeding area and were confronted by hundreds of mullet, milk fish, bat fish, cat fish, one barramundi and one large groper (NOT ME!!!) waiting to be fed. The table manners of the fish reminded me of our families around the dinner table at Christmas time. We all joined in and threw pieces of bread to the waiting fish. The result was a pandemonium of thrashing, splashing and bumping as the fish all tried to eat the first piece of bread to hit the water. To say it was fun would be an understatement. We had a ball. It was time to leave when the fish would not eat anymore bread and it was after 6.00pm when we arrived back at the caravan park. We still had to cook our own tea unlike the fish.

20/4/12

It was sleepin day and I made the most of it. Mary-Anne started her knitting lessons with Karen this morning. After 3 hours in close one on one tutition Karen emerged with two 2 inch long rows of knit one pearl two that she proudly displayed for the whole caravan park to admire.  After lunch Mary-Anne and I drove to a caravan place and bought a replacement door handle for her caravan.  I spent the rest of the afternoon removing the old and fitting the new part.  It's good to just spend a day not having to go anywhere for a change.

                              P40 Warhawk on display at Strauss Airfield on the way to Darwin.

                                          They really do have a B52 bomber on display!!!

                                                                B25 Mitchell Bomber

Ammunition storage bunker in Charles Darwin National Park.  Complete with Japanese bullet holes in the front door.

                      Large concrete naval gun emplacement at the Darwin  Military Museum

                                                            9.2 inch naval gun in the bunker

                                                         Fanny Bay Beach at low tide

8/4/12

We had a little sleep in before having breakfast and venturing up to the barramundi pond to view the park owner hand feeding 8 very large and hungry barramundi. He has them trained to appear when people start congregating at the fence. They know a feed is not far away. He is a character and even grabs them by the mouth and lifts the hugh fish out of the water. It is amazing how fast they react when food is presented. After the fish feeding show it was in the Prado and off to the Thermal pools for a swim. The Thermal pools are in a different location from the Bitter Springs but the same type of water coming from an underground aquafer. The carpark at the Thermal Pools also houses a replica of the homestead from the book 'We of the Never Never'. The woman who wrote the book lived in the area for about 12 months and the book relates her experience and the people she met while there. The replica is the actual homestead build for the 1960 movie 'We of the Never Never'. After seeing the homestead I'm glad I have my caravan with air conditioning. Then it was a pleasant walk past the Thermal Pools resort and caravan park to the actual thermal pools. What a different setup from the Bitter Springs. Here the banks of the creek have been lined with rock and hand rails and seating platforms were positioned just under the water for short people and the infirmed like me. There was even sand on the bottom which could be easily seen through the crystal clear water. We splashed about for about half an hour before Karen said it was time to take a short walk to Stevie's Waterhole. Mary-Anne and I were a bit dubious about Karen's definition of a short walk but we reluctantly agreed. After about 8kms of steep, windy snake infested track in 50 degree humid heat and no drinking water, we came to a lovely shaded tree area of creek with white sandy beaches. It was a lovely oasis and I expected to see Gilligan come out of the bush. I thought a swim here would be lovely to cool off after out walking ordeal. Then I saw it. A SIGN, telling Mary-Anne and I that this ideal location was in fact the home of Mr S W Crocodile ( Salt Water Crocodile). We were deflated, hot, sweaty, thirsty and tired. Karen on the other hand was leaping from tree to tree like a monkey with boundless energy and suggested that we jog back to the Thermal Pools and have a swim. Mary-Anne and I suggested that she swim HERE instead and we would ring a taxi. As usual, Karen won the day and we drudged back to the Thermal Pools. What a relief to fall into the pools, feining a heart attack and floating face down waiting to be rescued by two female German back packers. Just my luck they were both male and gay!!! I can't win. Then it was in the car and a short 12km drive to the Elsey Cemetery where many of the real life characters of the book 'We of the Never Never' were actually buried. A short distance down the road is a stone monument locating the actual position of the original Elsey Station Homestead.

9/4/12

Again it was not an early start and we are leaving today. We eventually packed up but before leaving the caravan park there was something special we had to do. Mary-Anne and I led the way to the dining area at the kiosk and put in our orders for SCONES, JAM and CREAM!!!!. Even Karen enjoyed them. Then we left and headed for Katherine. When we arrived we went straight to the Information Centre and found out everything about, and near, Katherine. Then we drove 9kms along the Victoria Highway to the Manbulloo Homestead and caravan park. What a different type of caravan park. It had the usual power and water but the ancient African Mahogany trees lining the driveway to all the caravan sites were unbelievable. The whole area was in total shade from these hugh spreading monstrous trees. I thought for a split second “we won't need the air conditioning” then I slapped my self for thinking such a thought. After setting up we drove back into town and the girls booked us all in for a boat cruise up the Katherine River to see two gorges. We then went to the Katherine Hot Springs but due to the recent flooding the whole area was still in a mess. We then drove down to the Low Level Recreation area on the banks of the Katherine River. This was a really scenic spot but evidence of recent flooding was visible. From there we continued on for a couple of kilometres and went to the Springvale Homestead. This is supposed to be the oldest surviving original homestead in the Nancy Territory. How people could build something so nice out of local stone and wood in the middle nowhere, back then in 1879, has got me beat! I doubt many people today could do it even with access to modern machinery and tools.

10/4/12

It was the 6.00am alarm that woke us this morning. We have to be at the Katherine Gorge visitors centre before 9.00am for our cruise. After a pleasant drive we arrived and waited with about 60 other people for the boat captains to arrive. We didn't have to wait long and we were all loaded aboard an aluminium tour boat. The cruise was great. There was a pleasant breeze blowing as we sailed up to the end of the first gorge. The Captain gave a running commentary as we cruised and looked and photographed everything about us. Again we were confronted by towering sandstone walls and lovely white sandy beaches. As this is now the official 'Dry Season' the water level has dropped and exposed rocky rapids which are the boundaries between each of the thirteen gorges. In the 'Wet Season' it is possible to travel up the full length of the Katherine Gorge in a speed boat as the rapids are covered by about 5 metres of water. We have to be happy with two. At the end of the First Gorge we had to abandon ship and walk about 300 metres around the rapids to another boat moored in the Second Gorge for the second part of our cruise. This one was spectacular as we cruised through the Katherine Canyon. It was similar to the Grand Canyon with 200 to 300 metre high cliffs towering above us. Every now and then there was a small waterfall coming out of the face of the cliffs. There were even pirate caves and the hint of buried treasure at the base of the cliffs. On the way back a lonely fresh water crocodile was spotted sunning itself near the water's edge and it became the most photographed object of the morning cruise. We had to change boats again on the way back and then it was all over. But it was well worth the $73.00 cruise fee to have seen such a wonderful place. After lunch in the picnic area near the car park we decided to visit the Cutta Cutta Caves back down the Stuart Highway 30 kilometres south of Katherine. We made it in time for the 1pm tour and were sent along a 600 metre walking track lined with lime stone rocks and death adders. At the cave entrance we were met by our guide who led us into a dark and beautiful fairyland filled with poisonous snakes, spiders and bats. All these creatures must have heard that Karen was in the cave and we never saw any of them. However the limestone stalagmites and stalactites and sparkling crystal formations were impervious to our presence and shone from the hidden mood lighting like glittering jewels. It was a 200 metre walk to the end of the walking platform and from there we would have had to crawl, duck and weave our way through narrow crevices in total darkness because our guide, who had the only torch, was not going any further. Reluctantly, we decided, with everyone else, that we would turn around and walk back to the entrance. To our estonishment we found that as we walked back the air rushing in from the entrance was like air conditioning as it blew past our sweating bodies. The walk in was with the breeze and was very hot and humid. It was back to Katherine and the girls had to have some retail therapy and empty Woolworths. I used my retail therapy time more purposefully and emptied the Liquor Barn of XXXX Gold. Then we went to the Katherine Museum and viewed photos of early pioneers and artifacts from the past. There was also a good WW2 history at the museum. They even had pieces of exploded bombs dropped by the Japanese on display. There is sooo much WW2 history up this way as the whole top end of the Northern Territory was one huge army, airforce and naval base. Add to that - the top end was bombed 64 times by the Japanese and many people were killed and injured. It was the front line for the defence of Australia at the time and the launching place for allied air attacks on Japanese bases and shipping in places and waters north of Australia. After tiring ourselves out at the museum it was back to the caravan park for tea, beer and bed. Maybe not in that order!!

11/4/12

We left our leafy caravan park and drove into Katherine to refuel before heading north to our first destination for today - Edith Falls. On arrival at Edith Falls we saw evidence of recent flooding. There was debris 5 metres up in the trees. To our shock there was a NO SWIMMING sign on display at the waterhole that Edith Falls deposits all its water into. It was the type of waterhole that you could imagine Adam and Eve would have swum in back at the beginning of time. It has crystal clear, cool water and a back drop of craggy cliffs and the waterfall that would make a Cecil B De Mill film look amaturist. The National Parks have not had time to check the swimming hole for salt water crocodiles. I suggested to Karen and Mary-Anne that the Ranger should get some back packers to test the waters. Another wasted suggestion!!!!! Then it was on to Pine Creek which is a little town further up the Stuart Highway. I thought it should be nominated for a 'Tidy Towns' award. It was so neat and tidy. We had a walk around the Water Gardens situated in the centre median strip and then we went to the Railway Museum. The people manning the museum are from Esk. They came to Pine Creek last year and stayed for a couple of months. They decided to come back again and are staying for an unknown time. The museum has a fully functional steam locomotive but no-one qualified in town to fire it up. We left Pine Creek and were intending to get to Adelaide River. However on the way I saw a sign “WW2 Airfield”. I braked hard and swung left onto a dirt road. Luckily for us it only lasted 100 metres and then we were on the old Stuart Highway. Eventually we saw signs of a clearing and a driveway through the low shrubs. We turned into the driveway and there it was. A long expanse of bitumen runway that disappeared into the distance. The first thing to do was a run along the full length of the runway with a smile a mile wide. After driving back to meet Mary-Anne, who had arrived by this time, (the old Stuart Highway is not maintained and has quite a few potholes - she is more careful of her caravan and drives a bit slower over rough roads) we were all so excited that there was no discussion about where we would spend tonight. A lovely flat solar panel friendly site was selected and a wonderful afternoon and night lay ahead.

12/4/12

It was wth a pang of sadness that we left our airstrip haven and we drove back along the old Stuart Highway to meet the new Stuart Highway. We turned left and headed for Adelaide River. We had a quick stop at the Emerald Springs Roadhouse before continuing on and eventually we arrived at Adelaide River. A quick drive through town was conducted and then we headed for the WW2 cemetery. To say it is well kept and cared for is an understatement. It is pristine, and so it should be. There are the graves of many of the soldiers, sailors, airmen and civilians who lost their lives during the Japanese sneak attack on 19/2/1942. This was the first of 64 such air raids to be inflicted on the Top End during the war. Then we headed for the ARSS. This stands for the Adelaide River Show Society. The show ground has facilities for caravans and is very well kept and run. We selected two nice sites and setup. After lunch I fired up the computer and started clearing up a back log of 5 days of travel on our computer diary. The girls read books and went for a swim in the afternoon. About 6.15pm we went for tea at the show grounds. On certain nights there are meals available and a bar is run. This is great you don't have to leave the show grounds to have a good time.

                                                          Bitter Springs swimming hole

                            Barramundi feeding at Territory Manor Caravan Park Mataranka

                                      Swimming hole at the Thermal Springs Mataranka NT

                                                 Springvale Homestead at Katherine NT

                                            Katherine Canyon in the Katherine Gorge NT

                                                Sandy beach in the Katherine Gorge NT

                                         Stalagmite in the Cutta Cutta Caves Katherine NT

              Caravan row at Manbulloo Caravan Park under the shade of African Mahogany trees

                                       Tea time on the runway of McDonald WW2 Airfield

                                                   Adelaide River War Cemetery NT

We have been out of range for the past 9 days.  Our trip report is below and photos will follow.  Happy reading.

29/3/12

We left our desert oasis about 9.30am and headed west towards Ayers Rock. On the way we called into Curtin Springs cattle station. It also has a motel setup and paid for powered sites as well as free camping non powered sites for tents and caravans, no water and showers cost $3 per person. I tried to buy some beer but a six pack was worth $36.00. Karen gave the approval for a 2lt cask of fruity wine for $25.00. I'm starting to dislike the Northern (Teatotlers) Territory. We continued on and eventually arrived at the Ayers Rock Resort and Caravan Park about midday. After booking in we quickly set up on our allotted sites and had a quick bite to eat. Our first impression of Ayers Rock was it's not that big. However we were stunned by its massive size when we were standing at the foot of it. We drove around the whole of Ayers Rock, walked up half way to the top (the heat and slippery steepness won out), we then drove around Ayers Rock and then did the Kuniya Walk to Mutitjulu Waterhole. It was only a 1km return walk.  We left Ayers Rock and drove 50kms to the Olgas. We walked the Walpa Gorge track for a total of 2.6kms through blazing heat and flies. The view at the end was enjoyable but not as spectacular as some of the gorges in the McDonnell Ranges. The Olgas are 36 separate rocks (domes) and the tallest is 200 metres higher than Ayers Rock and they are just as impressive. But not being one single rock they don't receive the same notoriety. We decided to stay and watch the sunset at the Olgas. Tomorrow we will watch both the sunrise and sunset at Ayers Rock. It was late when we returned to the caravans and we were all tired. We ate an easy tea and retired for the night after a couple of wines (God help me!!!).

30/3/12

Why does the sun have to rise soooo early. The alarms went off at 5.00am in both caravans and we were on the road to the Ayers Rock sunrise viewing area by 6.00am. When we arrived every Japanese and European tourist in Australia was already there. There was even a group of sun worshippers chanting as the sun rose above the horizon. I might add that there were some Australians but we were way outnumbered. Ayers Rock changed from a dark brownish colour to bright shades of red as the sun's rays danced across its many exposed facets while areas of shaded rock contrasted with darker colours. The event was outlasted by the sunworshippers who were still chanting and playing their ridiculous bongo drums long after the last rock watcher had left. We drove to the Mala Walk car park and joined 6 Tour bus loads of tourists on a 2km return walk to the Kantju Gorge. On this walk you are right at the foot of the Rock and our necks became sore from looking up to try to see the top of Ayers Rock. There are many photogenic spots on this walk and the cameras copped a hiding again. Thank God for digital cameras and large memory cards. The walk ended at a quaint waterhole at the end of a small gorge at the foot of towering sandstone walls. After the walk we returned to the caravan park where we relaxed and sheltered from the heat for a couple of hours. The girls heard there were shops in town and immediately dragged me kicking and screaming with them. There was an upside, Karen said I could check out the beer prices at the pub while we were there. That was an offer I couldn't refuse. With half the shop bought out it was onto the Hotel. My good mood was short lived. Beer could only be purchased by Kerry Packer or Rupert Murdoch as they are the only people I know with enough money to be able to afford a carton of beer. I couldn't even afford a 6 pack at the going rate of $38.00. I couldn't even buy a cask of wine because they aren't allowed to sell them because you know whos live near by. Tourists and non indigenous residents should be exempt from the Federal Government's stupid policy. It was back to the caravans to unload the groceries. Then it was out to the sunset viewing area to witness the changing colours of Ayers Rock on the opposite side. We were not disappointed. It did in fact change colour from a dirty brown to bright red a number of times. It was all over by 7.30pm and it was back to the caravan park for an early night. We head off in the morning towards Alice Springs.

31/3/12

With all good intentions of leaving early it was 10.00am when Mary-Anne was finally ready. She had three baths after she got up and before we left. I have never seen a more cleaner person in my entire life. Our first stop on the way back was at Curtin Springs Road House for a pit stop and to buy a cask of fruity wine. A man cannot live by Billy Tea alone. It was a non stop drive to Erlduna at the intersection of the Lasseter and Stuart Highways. There is a Shell Road House with Cabins and a Caravan Park. We had hot chippies!!! The second I've had since we've been away. Our next stop was 30kms up the Stuart Highway at a roadside rest area called Desert Oaks Rest Area. We plan to spend two nights here to relax and recover from the last hectic week. It is a great spot with shady desert oaks and desert bloodwood trees. It was clear skies and few clouds. The solar panels almost jumped out of each vehicle by themselves with excitement. They will be worked overtime in the next day and a half. I can't keep typing as I have to relax. See you tomorrow!!!!!!!!!

1/4/12

I woke this morning to a loud male voice talking to Karen. I came out to check and found a local character had pulled into the rest area and wanted to burn some of his rubbish. Guess where he wanted to burn his stuff. You guessed it, in the wood BBQ about 6 feet from the caravan. He reminded me of Talc Alf (Google the name, it is a real person) and as he was a Vietnam Veteran I didn't have the heart to tell him to piss off. We all chatted for about an hour (I hadn't been to the toilet yet and I was busting) and then he left, leaving only a memory of a phamton visitor and the smell of burnt cardboard in the caravan. The girls amused themselves by reading books, washing and ordering me around. I hid most of the day behind the cars pretending to be checking the solar panels, as every time I showed my face I got a job to do. It's great just relaxing in 50 degree direct sunlight. The girls don't know how lucky they are under the awnings with a cool breeze, with their feet up and reading. The rest of the day was uneventful and my tan is coming along well.

2/4/12

Karen and I were up early and went for a walk up and over red sand hills and along the Stuart Highway. We tried to be as quiet as church mice when we got back so we would not wake Mary-Anne. But my heavy breathing from exhaustion was rattling her windows and she woke up again without a sleep in. We had breakfast and packed up and headed once again for Alice Springs (The Wowser's Capital of the World as I was to find out). We arrived at 11.00am and it was straight to Woolworths so the girls could buy some groceries and for me it was to the Liquor Barn attached to Woolies to buy a cask of wine. To my horror, it didn't open until 2pm!!!! What the #@%*!!! That was 3 hours away and we wanted to do a bit more travelling after leaving Alice Springs. We had lunch after the girls had finished shopping, and I decided I would hang around until 2pm and the girls would drive 31kms north to the Tropic of Capricorn Rest Area and setup. We both refuelled before the girls left and I proceeded to wait for the appointed opening hour. It was as if time stood still. I thought I had been there for 3 days when 2pm came around and I was first in the Liquor shop when the door rolled up. I walked around and around and not one cask of wine could I find. I finally found a worker and inquired where he kept them and he told me they don't sell them. I could feel the smoke coming out my ears and asked where I could buy one. He said the Todd Hotel at the end of the Todd Mall. I walked for half an hour and could not find this mysterious pub. I walked back to the car and caravan, that I had parked in a dead end street by accident and eventually got on my way. By chance, when I was travelling down a road I hadn't driven on before, I found a Hotel and drove in. I selected two 2lt casks of wine and went to pay for them. The attended stated that I couldn't buy them until 6pm. I went off like a sky rocket!!!!! I asked what time I could buy a carton of beer and he said now. I should have bought beer in the first place but the Nancy Territory takes some getting used to. Eventually I arrived at the Tropic of Capricorn Rest Area at about 3.30pm and had to wait until 6pm until I could enjoy a cold rationed beer. I LOVE QUEENSLAND!!!!!

3/4/12

After a good night's sleep, thanks to Mary-Anne lending us her spray water bottle, we all had breakfast and were on the road by 9.15am. We plan to spend the night at the Devils Marbles National Park and it is 360kms away. That is a big day for us! We zoomed along at 90kph until we reached Prowse Gap rest area and the call of nature overtook us. We had a short stop and then it was on the road again until we stopped about 12.30pm at Barrow Creek Road House for lunch. It was a fairly short drive from Barrow Creek to the Devils Marbles camping ground and we arrived to find that half the sites were taken up already. We selected a good solar friendly spot and positioned the caravans parallel so the awnings were just overlaping and this provided great shade and respite from the 38 degree temperature (in the shade!). The girls washed clothes and then became engrossed in their books for the rest of the afternoon. I checked the solar panels as usual.

4/4/12

We left The Devil's Marbles at 9.15am and had an uneventful drive to Tennant Creek. There we planned to refuel and Karen wanted to buy a couple of items from the grocery store. It must have been pension day because all the old beat up cars were lined up at the garage when we arrived. After waiting for 20 minutes for the last heat of crap to leave, it broke down blocking the bowser. I said to Karen: 'This is not good. Golly gosh we have been waiting for so long and now this happens. What an inconvenience.' (That's not what he said. He had a huge wobbly and no golly goshes came out of his mouth. I will let you all use your imagination.) We then left that garage and went to the BP and lined up again only to find when we eventually got to the bowsers that no cards were accepted. I said to Karen: 'Golly gosh we are having some bad luck here. Let's try another garage.' We then drove to the Mobil at the other end of town and filled up without incident. Karen said to me as we were leaving the garage: 'Stop talking like a methodist minister or I will ride with Mary-Anne for the rest of the day!!' What a thrill it was to leave Tennant Creek and rediscover ourselves in the vast empty wilderness that lay ahead. We had a quick stop at the Three Ways roadhouse and I recharged my mobile phone via internet. Then we were off again and stopped about 30kms up the Stuart Highway at a Rest Area called Attack Creek where John McDouall Stuart was attacked by people from Tennant Creek when he came through in 1862. We'd already had our experience with them and expected a quiet afternoon and night. The girls washed again and I did you know what. What a life!!!

5/4/12

We were all up early this morning for no particular reason. We eventually packed up and, for some unknown reason, we left at our usual time of 9.15am. I keep asking why we can't get away any earlier and the girls can't answer the question. Anyway we headed north and stopped at Renner Springs Roadhouse for a look. It is a self contained roadhouse with a pub, motel and caravan park. We found out there are 11 people living permanently at the roadhouse in the middle of nowhere. Karen couldn't work out why anyone would want to live there. I could, if I owned the pub!!! We left the 11 people to themselves and continued our drive north. Our next stop was at Elliot with a much larger population than Renner Springs. Come to think of it, Renner Springs is between Elliot and Tennant Creek. I know now why the 11 people are living at Renner Springs. We had lunch a short distance from the Police Station under a large shady tree. The temperature was 38 degrees in the shade and 50 something in the sun. Our destination for today is the Longreach Waterhole in Lake Woods. The turnoff is a short distance out of Elliot and a bull dust track is supposed to head westward for 12kms to the waterhole. We didn't know what lay ahead so we ploughed on through the swirling clouds of bull dust and corrugations. At one point there was a Y junction and I took the left track but missed the sign saying 'This Way', meaning the other track. It quickly became apparent why we shouldn't be on this track with a 2 tonne caravan acting as a sand anchor in the deep powdery bull dust!!! A quick stop was made without using the brakes and it was 'ALL HANDS ON DECK' to let the tyres down. Well the only hands letting my tyres down were mine. Karen and Mary-Anne were standing in the shade of their parisols with looks on their faces as if their last tea bag had been used. With less air in the tyres it was possible to reverse out without incident and it was full speed ahead again, this time with Mary-Anne in the lead. We found a great spot right next to the lake and positioned the caravans parallel so we could maximise the shade from the awnings. It is Holy Thursday and families from nearby properties are also turning up with their ski boats to have fun on the water. It is such a nice place we plan to spend 2 days here and just relax. Again there is no internet or phone reception but the sunset is great.

6/4/12

After a restful night we awoke to a wonderful sunrise and with it the heat. After breakfast I setup my portable pump and collected some lake water for washing. Mary-Anne, Karen and I made use of the pump and sprayed our heads with cool water. The girls did some more washing again. The rest of the day was spent sitting around under shady trees and only moving when the shade moved. I think it is hotter today than yesterday. I pleaded with Karen and she gave permission for Mary-Anne and I to pull out the generators and fire them up.  I spent the rest of the day inside the caravan with a cold breeze blowing over me.  Mary-Anne also went missing for a few hours as she enjoyed her air conditioning.  (The next time I saw her she had a jumper on.) 

7/4/12

The alarm went off at 6.00am so we could pack up and leave as early as possible.  We have 310kms to travel today and that is hugh for us.  Our destination is Mataranka, thermal pools and air conditioning.  It was 8.10am when the cars and caravans started to move.  We negoiated the sandy track without incident and flew up the highway at a constent speed of 94kph until Karen spotted a monument sign and said I want a photo of that.  It was the Charles TODD memorial.  He was the Post Master General of South Australia and responsible for the building of the Overland Telegraph line from Adelaide to Darwin.  We zoomed off again and made good time to Daly Waters.  We inspected the wartime airstrip and a hangar.  Inside the hangar are photos and written history of the airstrip.  Then it was onto the township of Daly Waters.  We were surprised to find that there were so many people in town.  We were even more surprised to find we were the oldest people in town.  The pub and caravan park had been taken over by young people for the Easter Weekend who intended attending the B&S Ball on Easter Saturday night.  We steeled ourselves and entered the Daly Waters Hotel making our way past a beavy of beauties and hunks all intending to drink the pub dry before sunset.  What an amazing place.  There is everything imaginable hung from all walls, ceilings and posts.  There were bras, undies, caps, old tools, coins, paper money from every country, Police and Military patches to name a few.  I had a light beer and Mary-Anne had a coke.  Karen had a sit in a rocking chair made from an old wooden beer keg.  We reluctantly had to leave Daly River because our destination for today is Mataranka. On the way to Mataramka we saw a sign stating Gorrie WW2 airstrip. I quickly turned left onto a dirt track and was immediately confronted by a large pool of water covering half the road. I radioed Mary-Anne and suggested that she stay near the road until I checked out the track. Luckily for her I did because about 200 metres further on there was another patch of water this time covering the whole track. I wanted Karen to walk through it but she was worried about crocodiles. So I had a decision to make, should I drive through and possibly get bogged in crocodile country or should I take the easy option and reverse the Prado and caravan along a narrow winding track back to the Stuart Highway? I took the easy option and reversed out. I think there are still some trees standing along the track. We arrived at Mataranka about 1.30pm and had a quick drive around town. We spotted a sign for the Bitter Springs thermal pools and went for a quick look. On the way we spotted two caravan parks and the first one looked great. After leaving Bitter Springs we went to the Territory Manor Caravan Park and booked in. We quickly setup and then donned our swimming togs for a swim in the Bitter Springs thermal pools. After a quick drive to the pools carpark, we walked along a scenic track to the pools themselves. The water was crystal clear and a constant 33degrees. The pools are fed from an underground aquafer that pours out 30.5million litres of water per day every day. The pools are really a type of creek leading from the aquafer to a river. They are deep and the water is fast flowing. But if you can hold on to something it is really refreshing. After our swim the girls went for a walk on a circular track that led back to the carpark. Then it was back to the caravan park for a relax and to cook tea.

                                                         Our first view of Ayers Rock

                                                   Karen and I racing up Ayers Rock

                                                                 The Olgas at sunset

                                                               Ayers Rock st sunrise

                                                     Roughing it while desert camping

                      Mary-Anne's view of the Devil's Marbles from her chair outside her caravan

                            My view of the Devil's Marbles from my chair outside my caravan

                                        Sunset at the Longreach Waterhole in Lake Woods

                                               Unbelievable bar at the Daly Waters Hotel

            A possible underage drinker wearing a hat and false beard at the bar of the Daly Waters Hotel

                        The Larrimah Hotel today.  It was Army Officer's Mess during WW2