16/5/12

We left Derby today and made our way to Broome. We didn't know what to expect of Broome and we were all pleasently surprised to find it was a large town with all the amenities. Our first stop, as usual, was the Visitor Information Centre. We found out all we could and made way to the Roebuck Bay Caravan Park. The caravan park is right on Roebuck Bay and nearly all sites have a view of the water. To say we liked it here is an understatement. Broome would have to be the best place we have visited on our trip so far. After settling in we went for a drive around town. Then we found the Woolworths shopping centre and a quick shop was done. Then it was back to our view and many coldies while enjoying the scene before sunset.

17/5/12

We got up early today and Mary-Anne drove her car to the Nissan Dealer to have it serviced. We picked her up and visited Bunnings which was accross the road from the Nissan Dealer. Then we went into town and walked around China Town. I had a hair cut and beard trim and then we had coffee and hot chocolate at a cafe. We came back to the caravan park and I cleaned and cooked some Barramundi Wings that had been given to us by a lovely couple in Derby. While I was cooking the barramundi wings Karen inadvertently left a tap running in the sink with the plug in. The resulting waterfall coming from the rear of the caravan was quite spectacular. All the cupboards and drawers at the rear of the van had to be emptied and dried out. The cupboard with two years supply of toilet paper and paper towels was also flooded. People in the park thought we were having a garage sale when they saw the table standing in the sun loaded with 200 rolls of toilet paper and paper towels. By the time everything in the van was placed in the sun to dry out it was time to eat our Barramundi Wings and they were delicious....thanks Dennis and Linley.

18/5/12

We had a lazy day just enjoying the view. Karen cooked brownies and we had them for morning tea. In the afternoon we went for a drive to the Coles shopping centre which has a Best and Less. Then it was back to the caravan park and the view and a few coldies.

19/5/12

This morning we went into town and walked around the Markets in the grounds of the old Court House building. I thought I had been transported to the Eumundi Markets as there was hippie crap everywhere. I had finished in about five minutes and had to wait for another hour for the girls while they oggled at everything. After the markets we took a drive to Cable Beach and viewed the real Indian Ocean for the first time. The beach is 22km long and has fine white sand like our beaches in Southern Queensland. It was a brilliant day with clear blue skies and no wind. The crystal clear water was a turquoise colour in the shallow area near the beach and darkening shades of blue further out as the water deepened. We then went for a drive to Gantheaume Point which is at the southern end of Cable Beach. It has a lighthouse and fantastic sandstone cliff formations where dinosaur footprints can be seen on a very low tide. I should have had my hiking pole to help me negoiate some of the rocks I had to climb over to reach an area called Anastasia's Pool. This is a circular pool cut into a flat area of sandstone many years ago by a lighthouse keeper. His wife had arthritis and could not walk down to the beach to swim so he build her the pool. The only draw back is that she had to climb over many rocks to get to the pool. What a thoughtful husband! On our way back we stopped at the Broome deep water wharf and walked out on it. The fishing is supposed to be good and the water is about 600 metres deep at the end of the wharf. After the wharf, we returned to the caravan park and had lunch. Later in the afternoon Karen and I went to a Liquorland shop near the town beach. Next to Liquorland, Karen spotted a souvenir shop where she bought a pearl bracelet and I bought a brass compass. Later that evening Karen and Mary-Anne went to church and confessed all their sins. It took them over an hour to obtain absolution. I cleansed myself with a six pack.

20/5/12

We had a lazy morning today before making a quick sortie to Bunnings, Woolworths and Coles. Then it was back to the caravan park for a BBQ lunch at the picnic area high on a point overlooking the town beach and Roebuck Bay. It was hard to drag ourselves away from this wonderful spot but Karen and I had bought a bottle of bourbon and it was waiting for us back at the caravan. This is the first bourbon I've had since I ran out just after crossing the border into the Nancy Territory 2 months ago.

21/5/12

It seems to be the norm here to take things easy and that is exactly what we did again this morning. After lunch we went into town and walked to the heritage listed Old Broome Court House. We were surprised to find that it is still an operating Magistrates Court. Then we walked to The Old Broome Lockup. At the entrance is an old boab tree. A plaque explained the tree was planted by Sgt Henry Thomas in 1897 on the day his son, Fred was born. Unfortunately Fred was killed in action in July 1916 at Pozziers in WW1. Sgt Thomas, who eventually was promoted to the rank of Inspector, died of sunstroke at Broome on 22 December 1920. Then it was a short walk to Pearl Luggers in the heart of Chinatown. There we saw two fully restored pearling luggers on display. We left Chinatown and drove to Bedford Park. In the park there is a War Memorial and a replica of William Dampier's pirate treasure chest that is reportedly buried somewhere in Roebuck Bay. Then it was onto the Broome Historical Society's Museum. This old building was originally a general store but is now filled with all sorts of relics and memorabilia. There are pieces of exploded bombs and wreckage from destroyed allied and japanese war planes on display. A large part of the museum is devoted to the history of the pearling industry which is what Broome is best known for. After leaving the museum we drove back to the caravan park for bourbon and our evening tea.

22/5/12

Today we plan to go to Cable Beach later in the afternoon and have fish and chips for tea on the esplanade overlooking the beach. We hopefully will witness for the first time in our lives the sun setting on the ocean. But before that there were plenty of chores to be done. I spent the whole morning updating our computer diary. Mary-Anne amused herself by naming thousands of photographs she has taken and Karen cleaned out our caravan. At 4.30pm we left the caravan park and drove to Cable Beach. We located the Cable Beach General Store and purchased fish and chips and salad to takeaway. Then it was to the beach where we found a niece big flat sandstone rock from which we could view the sunset while eating our tea. Little did we know that this rock was also the place that 1000 sea gulls usually eat their tea every afternoon. It must have been off pay week for the seagulls because they turned up empty handed and all they wanted to do was share my chips. I don't share my CHIPS!!!! While I kept the seagulls busy Karen and Mary-Anne, both oblivious to my plight, enjoyed their three course meal. I managed to save half my chips, found beek marks in my fish and seagull poo on my soft drink can. At least the sunset was good. This is the first time any of us had seen the sun setting on the water and Mother Nature did her part by allowing perfect conditions to prevail while this event occurred. After the sunset we walked up the beach to where the camel rides were happening. Karen stopped the lead camel train for 5 minutes while she took photos of each camel. I think she was trying to find a pretty one. GOOD LUCK!!! We made the walk back along the beach in the dark and eventually found our car in the crowded car park. It is amasing how many people come here each afternoon to witness the sunset. They must all come from the east coast like us.

23/5/12

This was another lazy day just enjoying the view and the caravan park. I setup the TV in the annex area so we could watch the State of Origin tonight. Later in the afternoon Karen and I went for a walk to Liquorland and bought a bottle of bourbon to celebrate the game. We had an easy tea and enjoyed the game and the bourbons (Queensland WON!!!).

24/5/12

Today we went to the Malcolm Douglas Wildlife Park which is about 15kms out of town. It cost $35.00 each for admission but it was worth it. We had a quick look around and then we joined an organised tour. Before the tour started the guide brought out a baby crocodile and everyone got to have a hold of it. It is amazing how soft the skin is. It was only about 35cm long and the guide explained that a bite from a baby like this one is like slamming your finger in a car door. No wonder he put a hair tie around its jaws. The guide led us to various crocodile enclosures and woke up a few so we could see how quick their reflexes are. They reminded me of me. They are so sneeky and awesome. We spent the rest of the day walking around and seeing all the exhibits. The only downside of the day was knowing that Malcolm Douglas has passed away. It would have been great to meet him. About 6pm tonight Jackie who is a friend of Mary-Anne's daughter Jacinta came to visit. She is living and working in Broome. Mary-Anne was so happy to see her and catch up on all her news.

25/5/12

We had an early start today so I could drive the Prado to the local Toyota Dealer for a service. Karen and Mary-Anne caught up on their washing and I updated the diary and backed up all our photos and reports. The dreaded call came about 12.30pm that the car was ready to be picked up. I sat down and asked how much and $842 was the reply. I'll have to forgo a few cartons of beer to keep the budget in tact. In the afternoon I helped Mary-Anne wash her car and Karen washed 3 sides of our caravan. About 5.30pm Dave from the caravan opposite came for a beer and during our conversation we discovered that we are in the same line of work. The only difference is he really is retired and I am only pretending. I supposed I was pretending at work for most of the time so what does it matter.

26/5/12

This morning Karen and I washed the annex and the fourth side of the van before we left the caravan park. Mary-Anne refuelled and we were on our way towards Port Hedland. We stopped at Goldwire Rest Area and had lunch. About 2pm we arrived at Stanley Rest Area where we planned to spend the night. We found a concrete slab big enough for both caravans to fit on and setup. I noticed oil dripping from under Mary-Anne's Patrol and I opened the bonnet to have a look. There was more oil everywhere under the bonnet than in the middle east. I looked but couldn't find the cause. It was decided then that we would stay here until Monday morning so Mary-Anne could ring the Nissan Dealership in Broome where she had her car serviced and see if they would help.

27/5/12

There was not much to do today so Karen came up the idea of cooking pikelets and we had them with jam and cream. I love roughing it!!! Later in the afternoon an elderly couple, Jim and Audrey arrived with their Landcruiser towing a small Kedron caravan and they camped not far from us. We got to talking and they are from Bundaberg. They have travelled over a lot of dirt roads and camped out in the desert on their way through.

28/5/12

Mary-Anne and I got up early and drove 30kms to find phone signal. She rang Nissan and they gave her the run around. Then she rang RACQ and they put her onto RACWA who organised a tow truck to come from Broome to tow her Patrol. The tow truck arrived about 12.30pm and Mary-Anne and her car left with it. Karen and I stayed to mind the vans while she was gone. The problem was diagnosed late in the afternoon as a split oil pipe to the turbo. RACQ arranged a cabin at the Roebuck Bay caravan park and she enjoyed the ocean view once more. However without a car and having no provisions she could only manage 2 Trail Bars for tea.

29/5/12

Good news day for Mary-Anne. She had to get rid of the Patrol? No the news wasn't that good, but the problem had been fixed and she could pickup her car. RACQ arranged a taxi and she was on her way to Stanley Rest Area by 10am. She arrived at the rest area at 12.30pm to the cheers of everyone there and a ticker tape parade but on by three crows pulling plastic bags and papers out of the rubbish bins. It was my unpleasant duty to inform Mary-Anne that Karen and I had finished off the last of the pikelets, jam and cream.

30/5/12

We could finally leave Stanley today and we were on the road by 9am. We have planned one more free camp before Port Hedland at De Grey Rest Area. After a huge drive of 325ms we arrived about 2.30pm to find every caravan in the world camped there. We walked down to the river bank and couldn't find any sites big enough for two caravans. However we did find a large cleared area next to the railway line that would do the job. I nearly reversed the caravan into a small ditch but with Karen's expert guidance a diaster was averted. We hoped that an iron ore train would come through so we could see if they are really 2 kilometres long. We got our wish about 8pm. It is amasing how quiet trains are in these other states. Queensland trains would have rattled the windows out of our caravans but this train ran past with only the hum of four diesel engines to break the silence.

                      View from our caravan site at the Roebuck Bay Caravan Park Broome WA

                                                            Cable Beach Broome WA

                            BBQ lunch at the Roebuck Bay Caravan Park over looking the bay

                                         Restored Pearling Lugger in China Town Broome

                                      Feeding the seagulls at sunset on Cable Beach Broome

                                    Sunset over the Indian Ocean viewed from Cable Beach

                                                   Malcolm Douglas reminds me of me!

                                                    Mary-Anne teasing a baby crocodile

                                        The Patrol on its way back to Broome for some TLC

10/5/12

We left the Halls Creek Caravan Park this morning after refuelling and topping up our groceries and drove 118kms towards Fitzroy Crossing to a Main Roads Rest Area called Mary Pools on the Mary River. We arrived about 11.45am to find that about 20 caravans were already there. We crossed a concrete causeway over the Mary River and found a wonderful site that was very solar panel friendly. Thanks to our awnings we had plenty of shade and a cool breeze made it very comfortable. There were plenty of sites in the treed area but we planned to spend 2 days here and I wanted the batteries to get as much charge as possible. We had a wonderful day doing nothing and at the end we had a cook up that would have made the BBQPITZBOYS drooling. (Rump steak, Lamb chops, potatoes and veggies cooked to perfection). We did some star gazing after tea and failed to spot any satellites again.

11/5/12

We had planned to sleep in this morning but Karen was up as the sun sneeked over the horizon and Mary-Anne and I woke at 7am. It was a day of nothing much until Mary-Anne suggested we have scones with jam and cream for morning tea. Out came the Weber Baby Q and in went the scones. About 35 minutes later we were feasting on the best scones we have had since Kununurra. We also had Billy tea which made it Devonshire tea. We were all full from the scones and we sat around in the shade and did nothing. What a day! I started updating our computer diary and then had a sleep. The girls read books and did puzzles. Later in the afternoon they started working out our adgenda for the coming days.

12/5/12

The challenge of determining our next port of call was so hard we decided to stay another day at Mary Pools. We could stay here for a month but we would run out of water before we ran out of power. We had a BBQ lunch and after that the girls were going to cook brownies and a chocolate cake for the coming days but the holiday mode kicked in and nothing was done. There are only a couple of little puffy clouds in the sky and the solar panels are smiling with joy.

13/5/12

Today we decided to leave Mary Pools and drove west for 280kms to Ellendale Rest area. On the way we stopped and had lunch at Fitzroy Crossing. After finding the Visitor Information Centre shut we drove around looking for a park with a public toilet. It was like looking for a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. It does not exist and neither does a public toilet in Fitzroy Crossing. Fitzroy Crossing would have to be the worst place we have visited and we have seen some really forgettable places. When we found the lone caucasian male in town we asked him if there was a park where we could have lunch and all he could suggest was the football ground. We found the football ground and it had some big shady trees but, to my horror, it was an Aussie Rules ground. We gulped down our lunch and got out of town as quickly as possible. Our next stop was Ellendale Rest Area. We selected the best sites at the top of the hill and set up the solar panels and enjoyed the view. Then in the evening we star gazed and spotted a few satellites.

14/5/12

We were up fairly early but, as usual, we were the last to leave. Our destination for today is Derby which is only 180kms away. The driving was great because we had a tail wind and for the first time the Prado recorded sub 20LHK. Just before we got to Derby we spotted the Gibb River Road and drove along it a short distance. There was a photo opportunity at a large sign and both cars and caravans were recorded for posterity having travelled on this famous road. We arrived at Derby about midday and after a quick drive around town and visiting the Information Centre we booked in at the Kimberley Entrance Caravan Park. We set up and the girls did some washing. We took both cars to an Auto Electrician to have both of our second batteries checked. To my shock they were both given a clean bill of health. We spent the night on the phone catching up with family as we were out of contact for over a week.

15/5/12

It is siteseeing day today and we were off at 9am. Our first stop was at the Prison Boab Tree. I have seen some huge boab trees in our travels but this one is the great great grand daddy of them all. It is about 14 metres round at the base and is about 1500 years old. The tree is hollow in the middle with a small verticle opening at the front, which is wide enough for a person to squeeze through. I swore myself in as a WA Special Constable and arrested both of the girls after they started causing a public nuisance near the tree by climbing over the protective fence. A fierce struggle ensued and they both escaped before I could secure them in the Prison Tree. After I came to and undid the ropes I squeezed out of the prison tree and it was in the car and to the Myall Bore and cattle trough a short distance away. The Myall Bore was sunk in 1910 to a depth of 320 metres and the associated trough could water 500 bullocks . A short distance away was Frosty's pool. It is a small swimming pool build by Australian troops during WW2 to get some relief from the heat. Our next stop was the Derby Waste Water Wetlands and Bird Observation area. It must be the wrong time of year as there were no birds. We had a quick stop at Mitre 10 so I could spend some of Mary-Anne's money and then it was on to the Derby Wharf and we had lunch at the Centenary Pavillion. The floor of the pavillion covers 28 square metres and is covered by 30,000 mosiac tiles which took 370 children and adults over 700 hours to lay. (I never saw them!!). Mary-Anne and I drove onto the wharf and checked it out. Karen decided it was safer to stay on dry land in case the wharf collapsed. Our next stop was the old Derby jail which is situated right next to the present day Police Station. It is amasing how risk management has changed the building codes for watchhouses over the years. The old Derby jail would send a shiver up any present day Watchhouse Keeper's spine.

                              The causway over the Mary River leading to Mary Pools Rest Area

                                   Our solar panel friendly campsite at Mary Pools Rest Area

                          Non solar panel friendly shaded campsites at Mary Pools Rest Area

                                                        View of the Mary River

                       Another solar panel friendly campsite this time at Ellendale Rest Area

                                                   Our view at the Ellendale Rest Area

5/5/12

We left Kununurra today but not before the girls visited the Saturday Flea market in a park opposite the Visitors Information Centre. While they were doing that I made some minor adjustments to the caravan wiring in a hope some power could get to the batteries and fridge in the caravan while we are driving. We filled up our gas bottle at Home Hardware. Then we went to Metaland and Mary-Anne bought a replacement jockey wheel bolt for the one that fell off. Then we drove a whole 119kms to the Dunham River Rest Area on the Great Northern Highway and set up camp for the day. We have two days to get to the place where we are leaving the caravans while we camp in the Bungle Bungles, so it was not such a big deal setting up so early. We had a relaxing afternoon just doing nothing and enjoying the large area the Rest Area is in.

6/5/12

Today we drove just over a 100kms to Spring Creek Rest Area which is virtually across the road from the entrance to the Bungle Bungles road. We set up in a solar panel friendly spot then we had lunch. The girls then started to organize and pack for our camping trip to the Bungle Bungles. Later in the afternoon we went for a walk down the hill and had a look at Spring Creek. There were a few campers and motor homes set up in the shade of the trees next to the creek. It was a lovely spot but not if you wanted your batteries fully charged. We inspected the toilets on the way back. They consisted of two toilet bowls about two feet off the ground and no toilet seat. They were long drop toilets which is just a hole bored into the ground. Karen hates these types of toilets. There could be spiders!!! We had another afternoon doing nothing and enjoying it. (Well, I did. Karen & Mary-Anne were still packing for the tent camping trip). After tea we did a bit of star gazing but could not find any satellites thanks to the bright moon.

7/5/12

Today we drove across the highway and stopped at Mabel Downs Cattle Station where we paid $20 per night to store our caravans while we camped for two nights in the Bungle Bungles. After unpacking both cars of items that we didn't need while camping we loaded up with tents, water and food and hit the 56km long track to the Bungle Bungles. I had heard the track was very rough and corrugated but we found it not too bad. Even so, it took 2 hours to reach the Visitors Centre. There Karen and Mary-Anne paid the camping fees and we were allocated sites 15 and 16 in the Kurrajong Camping area. We travelled a further 7kms to the camping area and found our sites. Now the hard work started putting up tents. To our amazement the tents went up quickly and did not fall down. In the afternoon Karen organised a fitness program for Mary-Anne and I that consisted of firstly a 2km walk to the Echidna Chasm. The track leading to the Chasm was covered with ankle breaking river rocks that had the hiking poles working overtime once more. As we entered the chasm the track narrowed and the towering 200 metre high ridges were only a metre apart. Looking up, the colour of the ridges changed to a brilliant golden red where the sun could reach and further down a darkish brown. We came to a section of the track that appeared to be blocked by fallen rocks but we were able to squeeze by them and continue eventually to a fantastic narrow dead end. The 200 metre high walls of conglomerate sandstone rock just towered over us and demanded that we sit and admire their grandeur. It was hard to tear ourselves away from this magnificent place but it was getting late and there was still the Osmand Lookout walk to do. We negoiated our way out of the Chasm and took a right turn to the Osmand Lookout which was only 500 metres away. After a moderately easy walk we arrived at the lookout. We gazed out at the grandeur of the Osmand Range and the sweep of Red Rock Creek as it drains into Osmand Creek. An information board explained that the Osmand Range was between 1.6 and 1.8 billion years old. The Bungle Bungles are much younger being only 360 million years old. Karen had planned for us to also visit Kungkalahayi lookout on the way back to the camp site but it was too late and we had missed the sunset. When we got back to our tents I set up the camp shower and the girls filled two 20 litre water buckets. We all had a great hot shower and felt good after being hot and sweaty after the walks. The moon was still fairly full when it rose and the dingoes started howling to let us know the moon was up. It was with a crescendo of wild dogs howling at the full moon that we all retired for the night totally exhausted but very clean.

8/5/12

We left the camp site after breakfast and drove 27kms to the car park at Piccaninny Creek. Today we are going on the Cathedral Gorge, Domes and Piccaninny Creek lookout walks totalling 7 kilometres of torturous, rough, steep tracks that would make young fit Olympic athletes beg for mercy. The Cathedral walk was very treacherous with many flat sloping rocks covered by fine slippery sand, but the scenery made up for the life threatening track. Again we were confronted by a massive amphitheather at the end where wet season rains create waterfalls that cascade down the high sandstone conglomerate walls turning the dry creek bed into a raging torrent filled waterway. We made our way out of the cool Gorge and proceeded on the Piccaninny Creek Lookout walk in full sun. The track was the bed of Piccaninny Creek which, for the first part, was over smoothed solid sandstone rock. Then we diverged onto the creek bed and made our way still in full sun to an elevated area that overlooked Piccaninny Creek as it flowed away from the Bungle Bungles Domes. The end result was not as impressive as had been imagined, but at least we can say we have seen it. The last walk was around some of the massive beehive shaped, orange and black striped domes. Their colours of the formations is unbelievable. About an hour later we arrived back at the car park and had lunch. Then we drove the 27kms back to the camp ground for a restful afternoon. At sunset we went to the Kungkalahayi Lookout and witnessed one of the most impressive colour shows a sunset can turn on. We had the Bungle Bungle Ranges on one side reflecting the golden sunlight of the setting sun and on the other was the sun itself displaying its awesome presence as it disappeared behind the Osmand Range. The changing colours reflected off the clouds were contrasted with the silhouette of Livistona Palms and other trees calling the top of the Osmand Range home. It was in near full darkness as we descended the lookout hill and made our way back to the car park. This is our last day in the Bungle Bungles and the sunset topped off a great trip. It was back to the camp ground for showers and tea and an early night.

9/5/12

We were all up early today and began packing after breakfast. We still had the 2 hour drive back to where we had stored our caravans before we could begin travelling to our intended destination of Halls Creek Caravan Park. The drive out was uneventful but very long and scenic. Eventually we arrived at Mable Downs and the chores of unloading the cars and pumping up tyres began. At about 12.30pm we had finished and hooked up the caravans and drove about 100kms to Halls Creek. We stopped at the Visitor Information Centre which is very well appointed and the lady was very helpful. We had a quick drive around town and found the Caravan Park and booked in for the night. It was wonderful to have electricity and airconditioning again. The girls did three days of washing and I re-arranged the items in the Prado. It was early to bed as we were all very tired from 2 days of hiking the Bungle Bungles.

                                           Our camp site at the Dunham River Rest Area

                                  Part of the track to Echidna Chasm in the Bungle Bungles

                                      Deep inside Echidna Chasm and the track is narrowing

                                            Karen touching the end wall of Echidna Chasm

                                             The Beehive Domes of the Bungle Bungles

                                         The three of us at the end of Cathedral George

                                                Our spot at the Kurrajong Camping area

                                                 Sunset from the Kungkalahayi Lookout

27/4/12

We were up reasonably early today so we could pack up and leave Kakadu. We rolled out of the caravan park at 9am and stopped 1km up the road so the girls could visit an aboriginal non-culture centre. I checked Mary-Anne's caravan tyres and pumped them up a little. After the girls found out that there is no culture we hit the road again and drove 156kms to Pine Creek where we had lunch. We got out the reference books and found there was a free camp near Ferguson River which is about 34kms south of Pine Creek and 54 kms north of Katherine. We could not find the recorded free camp but set up on a gravel pit on the side of the highway that was used to store railway balast to repair the washed out railway line a short distance away. It is just after 4pm now and nearly Happy Hour for me. We plan to stay here tonight and head to Katherine then turn right towards the WA Border tomorrow.

28/4/12

We left our gravel pit oasis and drove to Katherine. We went to the Tourist Information Centre first and got info on what food was not allowed to be taken into Western Australia. Then it was grocery shopping at Woolworths to replenish supplies. After that I refuelled at the BP but Mary-Anne could not squeeze in for the diesel pump and she drove down the road to the Shell Service Station. I forgot to buy beer at Woolworths and asked Karen to go to a pub near the Shell while Mary-Anne was refuelling. While they were doing that I then drove all over town trying to buy a bottle of metho. I finally found a small convenience store that stocked it and had to go through the 3^rddegree to be able to buy a bottle. I really hate the Nancy Territory. I found Mary-Anne parked in a back street and we waited for Karen to return. After about 10 minutes we saw this great possession coming through a car park next to where we were parked. It was such a sight!! Karen was leading the way carrying a carton of VB cans followed by about a hundred traditional drunks. She was pretending to be the Pied Piper of Katherine and it was working. All she had to do was sit down in the long grass or the footpath and the carton would have disappeared in a flash. Mary-Anne and I rescued her and the following faithful just vanished as if they were never there. We had enough excitement for the day and happily left Katherine and drove to the King River Rest Area and had lunch. We then drove another 30kms to the Limestone Creek Rest Area where we set up camp for the night.

        

29/4/12

We left at our usual time and drove to Sullivans Campground in the Gregory National Park where we had morning tea. We went for a walk to Sullivan Creek and tried to spot some crocodiles. But we were out of luck. Our next stop was the Victoria River Road House which is right next to the Victoria River. It is one of those idyllic places that has everything. There is the magnificient Victoria River, wonderful high rocky escarpments in all directions overlooking the beautifully kept grounds with a caravan park attached. It would be a great place to stay for a week or so. We drove down to the boat ramp and walked alongside the Victoria River. There was evidence of recent flooding everywhere. It is amazing how much water these NT rivers carry through the wet season. Our next stop was at Joe's Crossing where Karen had read there was a short walk that was very picturesque (That's what she told us anyway). We set off with the sun belting down and the temperature was a pleasant 38 degrees. The first part of the walk was through long grass that followed Joe's Creek. There were towering cliffs on either side of the creek with tall palm trees high up where the cliffs met the sloping land that runs down to the creek. Mary-Anne and I thought this is great, a flat walk for a change and it should be good if the track led to the Victoria River. Next thing our good fortunes changed for the worst. The track swung left and up at a 50 degree angle towards the palms at the base of the towering cliffs about 150 metres above. There were fallen boulders and loose rock on every part of the track and our hiking poles were working overtime. At one stage I saw smoke coming off the tip of mine and had to stop for a while and let it cool down. It was taking too long so I used the sweat running from my brow that was flowing like a waterfall over my eyebrows to flow onto the tip of my hiking pole. That did the trick and it was up and up again until Mary-Anne and I finally met Karen at the base of the cliffs - then we collapsed! After regaining our strength we followed what can only be described as a goat track for about 1 kilometre along the base of the cliffs. There were signs of animal droppings now and again and I thought it could only be from the sure footed rock wallaby as no other animal would be silly enough to be where we were. One good thing about our death defying location was the view. It was as if we were on top of the world looking down on a green fairyland with craggy rock walls on either side. Finally the cliff scramble came to an end and the track started to descend. Our relief was short lived. There were the same loose rocks and boulders going down as there were going up. However, due to the amount of exercise Karen has been organising for Mary-Anne and I over the past 2 months we decended the dangerous slopes like two ADHD kids on a sugar trip. We waited for Karen to meet us at the bottom and then we made our way back to the cars. Because neither Mary-Anne nor I had whinged about the walk, Karen rewarded us with a choc coated ice cream for our good behaviour. After leaving Joe's Crossing we continued along the Victoria Highway until we came to a lookout with wonderful views up and down stream along the Victoria River. Again we could not spot any crocodiles. We stopped a short distance away at Big Horse Campground which is right on the Victoria River. We intended to stay there but it was full so we had to drive another 40 kms to East Baines River Rest Area. This is a wonderful rest area with Boab trees everywhere. The only complaint is that there are too many trees and we had to keep moving the solar panels to catch the sun. We had a huge cookup that night because tomorrow we cross into Western Australia and there is a Quarantine Station at the border where all fresh fruit and vegetables have to be surrendered. Cooked fruit and vegetables are OK.

30/4/12

Today after a short drive we arrived at the Quarantine Station which is right on the border. The staff there were very friendly and both vans passed inspection with flying colours. We had a quick lunch at the rest area next to the Quarantine Station. While there we discovered that the skylight cover on the roof of Mary-Anne's caravan had blown off. There was nothing we could do about it there and as it was only another 40 something kilometres to Kununurra we continued on. We went straight to the Information Centre and found out what we could see and do here. Then it was on to the Hidden Valley Caravan Park and we booked in for 4 nights. The caravan park has plenty of large shade trees and backs onto the Hidden Valley National Park which is home to the mini Bungle Bungles. That afternoon we drove around Kununurra looking for places that sold caravan parts to fix Mary-Anne's skylight. We were out of luck. However at Home Hardware I found heavy duty plastic that should do the job if all else fails. It was back to the caravan park for tea and bed. The only problem was at the border we put our watches back 1.5hrs and what should have been 6pm was only 4.30pm in Kununurra. What a long night!!!!

1/5/12

Today after breakfast we drove to Wyndham. On the way Karen caught both of us again with a scenic stop that had a short walk at a spot called The Grotto. From the car park there is a short walk to the lip where a waterfall came be seen cascading down 150 metres into a semi circular sheer rock walled grotto that has a shaded deep waterhole at the bottom. The water then flows out along Grotto creek. What a wonderful view Mary-Anne and I thought. Just as we were thinking about walking back to the car to continue our journey we noticed that Karen had her joggers on and was holding a hiking pole. She told us there was short walk to the bottom of the Grotto with only 140 steps. She left out the part about no handrail on the narrowest set of steps ever built going down a sheer cliff face and that you needed 7 foot long legs to step from one step to the next. Again our hiking poles came to the rescue and we made it to the bottom by walking and crawling and not falling over the edge. At the bottom there were so many large rocks that it was impossible to view the waterfall unless you were an Olympic Gymnast. We did our best, then it was time to ascend. Going up was better than going down as we were looking up, not down. That makes real sense if you are terrified of heights like Mary-Anne and I are. We finally made it to the top, again in a lather of sweat but this time no ice cream was offered as a reward for not whingeing. That's probaby bacause I did whinge all the way down and back up. Such is life!!! Then it was on to Wyndham. Our first stop was at the new fishing jetty that was only opened in January this year. It would be a great place to fish if you don't go to close to the edge (Crocodiles can jump out of the water). We had lunch in a small park then went for a drive through the township and saw the main street that is lined with Boab trees. We stopped at the Pioneer Cemetery and read all the headstones. Then we drove up a steep road that led to the Five Rivers Lookout situated on a mountaintop behind the town. We could see Cambridge Gulf disapearing away in the distance and the extensive expanse of mudflats that surround Wyndham. It was difficult to make out all the rivers – The Ord, Durack, Pentecost, King and Forrest – but we did our best. It was such a clear day with no clouds and just a hint of smoke from far away bushfires. After leaving the lookout we drove to the main street and found a 20m crocodile standing in a park. It was not real, thank god, but a replica made by local TAFE students. We wanted to drive to the Prison Boab tree but we had to turn back as the road was so rough. We did however find the Gibb River Road turnoff on the way home and went for a drive along it and took some photos of the car on the road. When I get home I can tell my friend, Nancy, in Brisbane, that I have driven on the Gibb River Road and hopefully she won't call me a wuss anymore. Just before crossing the Diversion Dam on the edge of Kununurra we turned right and went to the Zebra Rock Gallery. We viewed the gallery that had many 1.2 billion year old Zebra rocks carved into all sorts of shapes on display. Unfortunately everything was so expensive we could not afford any souveniers. We did take a walk through the grounds and played with pet cockatoos and garlahs. Then from a small jetty we saw hundreds of fish in Lake Kununurra waiting for feeding time. On the way home we stopped at Coles and the girls did some shopping. We were all very tired when we eventually made it to the caravan park.

2/5/12

Karen had been checking her local tourist guide books and found a short 500m walk for us all at the Hidden Valley National Park. We didn't check her footware before leaving the caravan park, unfortunately, and it was discovered too late that she was wearing joggers. (Joggers mean steep, long, rocky tracks ahead). To make it worse, today was the hottest day so far in Kununurra. That was all Mary-Anne and I needed. The Hidden Valley outcrops of sandstone resemble the Bungle Bungles beehive banding on a smaller scale but they are spectacular nonetheless. We took a track that led us through the beehive outcrops and then up a fairly difficult track to a lookout. From different parts of the lookout it was possible to see over Kununurra and our caravan park as well as the distinctive beehive rocky outcrops disappearing into the distance. When we got back to the car park Karen suggested that we drive to the coach parking area and leave the car there because she had seen another track that she wanted to walk along. Silly us. Karen led us on a track that wasn't a track and we walked about 4 kilometres and ended up on the town side of Hidden Valley with no way back through the mountains to the car park. We had two options; walk all the way back the way we had come to get the Prado or fight our way through dense scrub, long grass and deadly snakes to the rear of our caravan park and collect Mary-Anne's Nissan Patrol to drive back to the waiting Prado. The deadly snake option won out. When she got her breath back Mary-Anne told Karen to stick her walks and in future if we can't drive to see something we won't be seeing it. I just agreed because Mary-Anne is scarier than Karen. After we got back to the caravan park and dropped off the Patrol Karen appeared with two ice creams as a peace offering. Then we drove to Ivanhoe Crossing, just out of town to view the original Ord River crossing point. It would be a great spot for a picnic but there was only one table and it was in the sun. The water was running quite fast and deep and the crossing was closed. From the crossing we drove back to town and went to the swimming beach and skiing area in Lake Kununurra. We had lunch in a nice park right next to the lake. After lunch we drove a short distance to Lily Lagoon which is at the end of the town part of Lake Kununurra. We walked through a lovely park that had large shady trees and many Boab trees of varying sizes. While walking Karen and I were set upon by thousands of sandflies. However, because Mary-Anne is so clean from 3 showers a day, they left her alone. We ran to the car for shelter while Mary-Anne slowly strolled through the clouds of sandflies unaware of their existence. From Lily Lagoon and sandfly park we drove to Home Hardware and Mary-Anne purchased some heavy duty plastic to cover the skylight opening of her caravan. Then we drove to the Hoochery Rum Distillery 9 kms out of town. We were planning on doing a tour of the distillery and buying a bottle of rum. But after seeing the prices- $36.00 for a 375ml bottle of rum - I thought it was a ripoff and I left in disgust. We drove back to the caravan park and borrowed an extension ladder so I could secure the plastic to Mary-Anne's skylight. There is so much plastic up there now I think it should last until she gets home in December.

3/5/12

Today we planned to drive to Lake Argyle. This is the largest fresh water lake in Australia and is situated 70kms from Kununarra further up the Ord River. It was a pleasant 30km drive along the Victoria Highway to the turnoff to Lake Argyle then another 40kms to the lake. On the way we stopped at the Argyle Homstead. It is the original homestead built by Patrick Durack in 1887 and was relocated stone by stone to its present location in 1970. The original location is under metres of water at the bottom of Lake Argyle. The work involved in relocating this house would have been immense. Each stone was numbered and replaced in exactly the same position when it was put back together like a large jigsaw puzzle. It would have been a grand structure in its day considering even today it is in the middle of nowhere. It would have been further from the middle of nowhere in 1887. The house contains memobillia and photos from the grand old days. It is worth spending some time here. Next stop was Lake Argyle. We drove to the Tank Lookout and from this vantage point you can see the lake disappearing into the distance. Then we drove to the dam wall lookout where even more of the lake is visible. I always thought the dam wall would have been a very long and massive concrete structure but it is only fairly short and is constructed of piled up rock. We had lunch in the picnic area on the down stream side of the wall and from this vantage point the size of the wall can really be appreciated. It is unbelievably high and thick at the bottom. It is hard to believe that it holds back 9 times the volume of water in Sydney Harbour. I wish we had a dam like this outside Brisbane so we would never run out of water. But then we wouldn't have the volume of rain to ever be able to fill it. We drove to the Lake Argyle Resort and store and had a look around. We noticed a number of people sitting in an open area of the store and went to see what they were doing. They were watching a video of the construction of the dam wall. We couldn't help ourselves and we watched it to the end. It was an eye opening experience to see how the dam wall was put together. There was a lot more to it than just piling up a lot of rock. We had a quiet drive home listening to the Phantom of the Opera and believe me I was glad to get to the caravan park.

4/5/12

Today is a nothing day for us. By that I mean we are not going anywhere. The girls washed everything except me this morning and I spent the whole day updating out trip diary and downloading photos to put on our blog. The highlight of the day was Mary-Anne's scones which she cooked in her Weber Baby Q. She used Lorraine Leyland's recipe from her autographed cook book and they were to die for. Who could ask for more? Scones, jam and cream and a cup of coffee under a spreading Banyan tree in the East Kimberleys of Western Australia (Queensland on the West Coast).

                                         Tea time at the gravel pit on the way to Katherine

                                            Mary-Anne scaling the cliffs at Joe's Crossing

                                         Another view of the torture track at Joe's Crossing

                                            The mighty Victoria River from the look out

                              East Baines River Rest Area with Boab tree (Ony a small one)

              Finally we are out of the Nancy Territory and into the Queensland on the West Coast

                                      Looking down into the Grotto on the way to Wyndham

                            View up Cambridge Gulf from the Five Rivers Lookout above Wyndham

                                    A small part of Lake Argyle and the Ord River DamWall

21/4/12

Another lazy morning was spent at the caravan park. After lunch we all went to the shopping centre at Casaurina and stocked up on things, especially grog. Then it was back to the caravan park. Karen organised a caravan washing party and Mary-Anne and I were invited. After that I fired up the computer and updated our diary. This evening the girls craved something extra in their lives. God provided divine intervention and instead of chocolate they went to church while I received some inspiration from 6 cans of VB.

22/4/12

Today was one of those dreadful days that we all hate - an early wake up by the alarm. Today we planned to go to Litchfield National Park and see everything. We were on the road by 7.30am and our first stop was the town of Batchelor. We stopped at the Information Centre but no one was home. Our next stop after entering the park was the Magnetic Termite Mounds. These little creatures are busy up this way building earth mounds about 2 metres tall. It was fascinating to watch the overseas visitors going ape over these precious little buggers. They obviously haven't had their homes invaded by termites. But I suppose these termites aren't too bad as they eat grass not wood. I might take a mound home and put it in the back yard so I don't have to mow when I get home!!! Next it was a stop at the Buley Rockholes. A short walk alongside a spring fed stream brought us to a number of rockholes that were proving popular with young and old alike on such a hot day. The water was crystal clear and the sun reflected off the golden coloured rocks under the water. Our next stop was the Florence Falls. After walking down 135 steps to the creek floor we were greated by a wonderful waterfall surrounded by a dark green leafy curtain of rainforest plants. It would have been a great place for a swim after the steps but we forgot our togs again. Thanks to a Tour Guide we met at the bottom we made our way back up via a windy track that meandered its way alongside and across the creek until we eventually came out of the leafy canopy at the car park. (We weren't really looking forward to climbing the 135 steps back up again!) Next on the agenda was Tolmer Falls. We could not go to the bottom of the falls here because of the endangered Ghost and Orange Horseshoe bats. Instead, it was along a track to a vantage point above the falls to view the water cascading down into the creek below. Then it was onto Wangi Falls. Due to recent flooding and the possibility of salt water crocodiles sneaking into the waterhole at the bottom of the falls no swimming was allowed. We gazed at the falls for some time and I still can't get over how clear the water is up here. Karen was itching to go for a walk and, instead of the 3km loop track, Mary-Anne and I agreed to go on the SHORT Tree Top walk. Where are the tops of trees? That's right, way to buggery up in the air as we found out after climbing a never ending set of twisting steps that left us breathless and with wobbly legs. 'What's the view like?' a fit young lad asked as he vaulted up the last of the steps and lept onto the viewing platform. With my last remaining breath while lying postrate on a bench I said: 'I don't know. Hopefully I'll be able to tell you in about an hour.' After recouperating we all had a look at the view and wished we had bought a chainsaw with us. We were not quite at the tree tops and all we could see were branches and leaves. With regained strength and vitality we skipped down the stairs and enjoyed a hearty lunch in the picnic grounds while still sweating in the 95% humidity. It was a long and tiring drive home but I was kept awake by the snoring of my two travelling companions. At some point near Strauss Airfield one of them snorted so loud that they both woke up. Neither would admit to being the snorting culprit though.

23/4/12

Today we said farewell to Darwin as our destination for today is Kakadu. We left at 10am and drove to Humpty Doo. It is a neat little town and we had a quick drive around. One thing we did notice are the hugh mango farms that stretch from Humpty Doo to the start of the Kakadu National Park. The people in Darwin just love their mangoes. Our next stop was at the Window to the Wetlands. It is a building set on top of a small hill that overlooks extensive non-Kakadu wetlands. It also has information and displays on all types of plants and creatures that can be found in the Top End Wetlands. After leaving the Windows we had lunch in the carpark at Corroboree Park which is a roadhouse and pub on the Kakadu Highway. Our next stop was at the Mamukala Wetlands and Bird Hide. We had no need to hide, or for Mary-Anne to whisper, as the birds have not arrived yet. There were about 6 ducks and a Jesus bird to amuse us. I looked for crocodiles but they were hiding too. We stopped at the Bowali Visitor Centre at Jabiru and paid our park admission fee of $25.00 each. Then we drove to the Aurora Caravan Park in Jabiru and booked two powered sites preferably with mosquitoes. We were not disappointed as the mosquitoes came to visit as we set up in an idyllic green grassed oasis. We must be early in the season as there were only two other caravans and a small tent in the whole caravan park. No wonder the mosquitoes were so friendly - they must have been lonely.

24/4/12

Today was a day for sightseeing and we visited the township of Jabiru first. The first thing we saw was the Bakery and we all had an authentic Kakadu sausage roll for breakfast. What a life!!! We headed north towards Ubirr. On the way we were confronted by a flooded section of the road. The indicators showed the depth was 400mm and after checking for crocodiles and making sure the windows were up and all doors were locked we slowly drove through the water without incident. A short distance further on there was another lot of water accross the road. This time there was a bend in the road and it was almost impossible to see where the road was under the 400mm deep water. With Karen securely roped to the bull bar we entered the water and followed her directions safely to the other side. On the way we diverted and had a look at the Merl Camping grounds where we were initially going to camp. Thank god we changed our minds. There were crocodile signs everywhere and the water had only recently receded. If we were crocodile hunters it would have been a great place to camp. We left Merl, and not long after, came to the East Alligator River with a crossing (Cahills Crossing) and boat ramp. The crossing was 800mm underwater and the road to Oenpelli was cut. The water again was crystal clear but there were no crocodiles in sight. We continued on to Ubirr and put our walking shoes on again so the girls could view some ancient graffitti. It was hot and humid as we negoiated the track to a large rock that had some drawings on it. Mary-Anne was over the moon with delight to see graffitti on a rock instead of on a railway carriage. The walk continued to the base of a sandstone escarpment. To my horror there were arrows pointing up the sheer walls to a lookout at the top. With the aid of my trusty hiking pole the ascent was a breeze and the 360 degree view was unbelievable. We were looking down over vast neverending wetlands in one direction then onto other large sandstone outcrops and in the distance to the east was the Arnem Land plateau. We were saturated from perspiration when we eventually arrived back at the car park and couldn't wait to turn the engine on and feel the cool air conditioning. We drove back to Jabiru and had lunch in the park land at Lake Jabiru. Then we drove to Nourlangie Rock so Mary-Anne and Karen could see more art sites. It was still hot and humid but we went on a 1.5km walk anyway to make sure our sweat glands were still working. To our delight, there was another lookout on the track that required gut busting effort over fallen rocks to reach. On the climb our minds were occupied by attempts to pronounce the name of the lookout. It is GUNWARRDEHWARRDE. Mary-Anne said the person who named it had probably drunk a couple of flaggons. The view again was spectacular and worth the effort. After trekking back to the car park we drove back to the caravan park. The girls had a swim to cool off and I had 6 cans of VB.

25/4/12

Today we leave Jabiru and move onto Cooinda which is only 54kms down the highway towards Pine Creek. We booked into the Cooinda Lodge Caravan Park and again there were not many other caravans or campers there. The grounds are filled with green grass and large shady trees. We enjoyed a lazy day and booked a 4.30pm sunset cruise on the Yellow Water Wetlands. We boarded a bus at 4.15pm and were driven to the cruise terminal. Most of the road to the terminal is still under water and there is evidence of how deep the water there was a couple of weeks ago. We were let off on dry land and walked along crocodile proof walkways to our cruise boat. The cruise lasted 2 hours and we sailed along the South Alligator River and through flooded wet lands. To our delight it was only a few minutes into the cruise when we saw our first live wild crocodile. It was a large male who did not want to be disturbed and submerged quickly. It was not long before another was sighted and the Captain nudged the boat up slowly for all to have a close look at the monster. There were not many birds in the wetlands and we were told it was too early in the season. But when there are crocodiles around who wants to look at birds? We sighted a large male crocodile slowly swimming near the water's edge and the Captain positioned the boat a short distance away from him and kept pace with him for about a hundred metres. What a thrill to be so close to a man eater and to be able to watch him swim along effortlessly. The boat slowed and the crocodile drew ahead of us. We watched as a smaller male crocodile came racing from the other side of the waterway to challenge the large one. I was amazed to discover that even crocodiles have some sense. As soon as the small crocodile got close enough to see how big the other was he pulled up quickly and backed off in a hurry. Unfortunatley, all good things must come to an end and we were back at the terminal. This was a highlight of our trip so far. Mary-Anne and I have wanted to see a live crocodile in the wild all our lives and today we saw about 8.

26/4/12

Today is a nothing day. We decided to stay another day at Cooinda and visit all the sights within driving distance. However we were told that all the places of interest are still closed due to flooding or flood damage. Not to worry - it gives us a chance to relax and catch up on things. Mary-Anne cooked a chocolate cake in her Weber Baby Q and we had a BBQ lunch.  Late in the afternoon we all went for a walk to the home billabong at the resort.  This is where the boats for the Yellow Water cruises leave during the wet season.  We looked hard but could not see any crocodiles.

                                          Large termite mound at Litchfield National Park

                                                       One of the Bluey Rockholes

                                                Florence Falls at Litchfield National Park

                                                Tolmer Falls at Litchfield National Park

                                             View from Nardab lookout at Ubirr Kakadu

                                          'Oh what a feeling......' on top of Nardab lookout

                               Large crocodile doing its own thing at Yellow Water Billabong

                                                     'If I don't move no one will see me'