22/3/12
The sounds of alarms
woke occupants of both caravans this morning at the un-godly hour of
6.00am. The reason for this extraodinary event is that we are
driving to the gorges of the East McDonnell ranges this morning. ETD
is 7.30am. With stomachs full of coffee and tea it was all go at the
appointed hour. We were on the road after a short detour to top up
the fuel tanks and heading for the first stop - Emily Gap. It was a
pleasant drive of about 10kms to Emily Gap. The air temperature in
the shade was cool and the girls were rushing to find anything in the
car they could put over themselves to ward off the breeze. I
suggested a can each of Harden-up but they used the last can on the
second day of the trip. The Emily and Jessie Gaps are small gaps in
the Heavitree Range. It appears creeks have eroded the range over
millions of years. The high sandstone walls of the range have been
uplifted to form vertical lines of strata that become effected by
wind and rain and large chunks have fallen away. The creek was dry
but full of white sand. Every now and then Ghost Gums and River red
gums break the scenery. Our next stop was at Jessie Gap. This is a
similiar gap in the range to Emily. Again the creek had white sand
and the high sandstone walls towered above us. It would be a great
place to have a picnic and BBQ up some snags. We contiued on and our
next stop was Corroboree Rock. A large clump of rock that was never
used by them for a corroboree but it was named that anyway. It could
be described as a miniture version of one of the Glass House
Mountains. As a natural feature it was very impressive. After
following the track that took us completely around Corroboree Rock so
that we could see if from every angle it was next on to Trephina
Gorge. We walked through a fairly rough track to the Gorge and it
was worth it. If it wasn't so chilly the girls would have gone for a
swim. Although Mary-Anne nearly did while showing us her skills as a
broad jumper to cross a narrow stretch of water blocking the track on
the sandy creek bed. The sides of the gorge towered above us and the
river red gums were spectacular. We had lunch in the car park to
regain our strength before heading off and driving to the Ross River
Resort. It was unspectacular and a quick drive through was
sufficient. We tried to drive to N'Dhala Gorge but the road was
closed due to recent heavy rain. It was three tired nomads who
eventually made it back to the caravan park that afternoon.
23/3/12
Today we headed west
to visit the West McDonnell Ranges. To say the drive was scenic
would be an understatement. We drove some 100kms to visit Ormiston
Gorge first and planned to visit other gorges on the way back. The
Ormiston Gorge was again breathtaking with sheer natural beauty. The
rock features of the gorge walls here are similar to all the others
we have seen and just as impressive. The shaded area at the water
hole was cool but the girls said it was cold due to the breeze. We
left and drove to Serpentine Gorge. The walk in to Serpentine Gorge
was fairly tough over a rough track but the large water hole at the
end with its River Red Gums and again towering rock walls was worth
it. On the way back Karen suggested that we take the Lookout track to
the lookout which was supposed to be one of the best views in Central
Australia. Up and up we climbed on a track that wasn't a track.
Mountain goats and sure footed rock wallabies were falling and
slipping on the loose rocks and disappearing over the edge of the
precipitous slope. We climbed for about an hour and the top was
still a thousand feet above us. We all had legs of jelly and the
thinning air was taking its toll. Snow caps could be seen on the
peak and it was decided that the view could get stuffed (We certainly
were!!) and the dangerous decent was undertaken. If not for our
trusty walking poles to sure up our balance we all surely would have
perished. It was hugs all round when we finally reached the foot of
the mountain and the fairly rough track on the way in was like a
super highway on the way out. After a short rest our next stop on
the way back was Standley Chasm. We were confronted with a fee to
exert ourselves to view this natural wonder and the girls said NO!!
The girls couldn't believe when all the other gorges were free and on
principal decided not to go. I looked at a photo of it instead. Then
it was onto Simpsons Gap. After an easy short walk we were once
again confronted by enormous rock walls on either side of the Gap. A
water hole blocked the gap but the shade near the water was great.
On the way home we stopped at the site of John Flynn's grave and
monument. John Flynn realised how the outback people were suffering
because inadequate access to health care. He founded the Royal
Flying Doctor. The monument was very neatly kept and was part of a
roadside rest area.
24/3/12
A not so early start
today. The girls did some washing and then it was into town for some
shopping. We all walked up Todd's Mall and once all the supplies
were restocked it was onto the Alice Springs Desert Park. What an
amazing place. There are areas set aside as 'Sand Country, Woodlands
Country and Desert River Country'. They even have a salt pan, clay
pan and a gypsum pan. All these areas are in one big circular walk
and you move from one to the other. It has all been planted,
constructed and cultivated from scratch. There are bird enclosures
every now and then where you can see and identify some of the local
species. The Nocturnal House is extremely well set out and the
animals, snakes, lizards and insects that only appear under the cover
of darkness are there to be seen. The climax of the day was the wild
bird show. A park ranger presented on command different wild birds
to perform for the audience. The wild birds, we found out later,
were housed in cages behind the outdoor stage and were released for
each segment of the performance. But that doesn't matter, it looked
real and they performed well. The last performer was not of the
feathered kind but an echidna. I never thought you could train one
of them. It was a great day and well worth the entrance fee.
25/3/12
We left Alice
Springs about 9.30am and headed south on the Stuart Highway. Our
first stop was at a place called Stuart's Well. This is a roadhouse
and caravan park. What a great place and the man who owns it is a
character and would have many stories to tell. From there we
continued south and turned onto the Lasseter Highway at Erldunda. We
continued another 60 odd kilometres and stopped for the night at a
rest area in sand and desert oak country. The rest area was called
Kernot Range Rest Area, free camping and a lovely spot. Karen and I
walked up our first ever RED sand hill. It is difficult to come to
terms with the sand being a bright red and not white. I don't know
what I prefer. It was a wonderful place with shade and a cool
breeze. Maryanne put her shower/toilet tent up for the first time.
Sleeping should be great with the breeze.
26/3/12
We left our desert
oasis rest area at 10.10am and drove 165kms to the Kings Creek
Station. It is a working cattle and camel station as well as a
tourist orientated caravan and camping setup. The people are nice
and friendly and full of advice. Our site is really lovely and we had
a shed attached which had a large table and bench seats as well as a
stainless steel bench and sink area and yellow fluorescent lights to
help keep the insects at bay. Early in the afternoon we went for a
drive to Kathleen Springs. It was short pleasant trip through more
sandy counry. The walk to the Springs was a wheelchair friendly
track and fairly easy going. The water hole at the end of the chasm
appeared deep and was ringed by high rocks walls and River Red Gums.
We couldn't go for a swim because the rainbow serpent lives in this
one. It (the rainbow serpent) seems to live in all the most
beautiful places. Funny that! Back at the Kings Creek Cattle Station
the girls decided to try out the swimming pool because it was so hot.
The water wasn't though! But it was very refreshing. We amused
ourselves until 6.15pm and then went for a walk to Tank Hill to view
the sunset to the west and the changing colours of the ranges to the
north. Tank Hill was so high and the 360 degree view was endless.
There were no clouds to enhance the sunset but the clear skies just
lit up as the sun approached the horizon. The ranges became a bright
deep red and the surrounding country below took on a golden
appearance. When the sun had set the stars came out and the natural
performance continued. Billons of tiny white lights lit up the sky
but the standout performers were the stars of the Southern Cross. We
all will sleep well tonight.
27/3/12
The alarm clocks
went off at 5.00am this morning so we could get an early start and
arrive at Kings Canyon before the sun had risen too far. We left at
6.10am and drove about 36kms to the car park at Kings Canyon. We had
a choice of the Rim walk or the Creek walk. After seeing the start
of the Rim walk disappear up a loose rocky-stepped very steep and
high slope, we decided that the Creek walk would be more suited to
our relaxed life style. I think we made the right choice. The walk
again provided us with views of 270 metres high vertical rock walls
and numerous River Red Gums, Coolibah, Ghost Gums and a very rocky
creek bed. There were many very photogenic spots that caught our
keen eyes and the cameras copped a hiding. At the end of the walk
there is a raised platform that allows views to the end of the Canyon
and up at the very massive and impressive North and South walls. It
was the South wall that changed colour for us as the yellow sun
peeked into the Canyon. Again the cameras were very active. Of all
the gorges, gaps and chasms we have seen in the past few days Kings
Canyon would have to be the Grand Daddy of them all without doubt.
After walking back out we had a quick bite to eat and a cup of tea
each. Then we drove further west about 6kms to the Kings Canyon
Resort. We had a quick drive around and found a Shell Roadhouse
opposite but still part of the resort complex. The petrol was cheap
here at $2.09 per litre and I filled the Prado. The price of ULP at
Kings Creek Station is $2.24 per litre and Diesel is $2.25 per litre.
We had a quiet drive back to our caravans and once home the girls
did some washing and started to cook a chocolate cake in Mary-Anne's
Webber Baby Q while I updated the diary from the last few days and
downloaded hundreds of photos.
28/3/12
We had a sleep-in
this morning and took our time packing up. We didn't have to be out
of the caravan park until 10.00am and we only had about 100kms to
travel. We left right on 10am and had a leisurely drive to the Mt
Connor Lookout. It's hard to believe what such a hugh mesa would be
doing all by itself in the middle of such a vast flat landscape.
However I'm glad it chose where it did. Mt Connor is a fair distance
from the lookout but it is still large and impressive. Just imagine
what it would look like up close. We took a short walk up a red sand
hill, on the opposite side of the highway from the lookout and were
greeted by the vista of a large salt lake. This contrasted with the
redness of the sand. What a great spot. If you looked north the
salt lake was in view and to the south was Mt Connor. After soaking
up the scenery we decided to travel back 7kms to the Curtin Springs
East Rest Area. It is a large rest area with two water tanks and two
under cover picnic tables but no toilet. There was no one there and
we had the pick of the camping spots. There was not a cloud in the
sky and the solar panels were smiling from handle to handle when we
put them out. It was about 1.00pm when we set up camp and we enjoyed
a relaxing afternoon soaking up the shade from our awnings and the
cool desert breeze. It was a different story if you were in the sun
where the afternoon temperature would have been in excess of 40
degrees.
Emily Gorge East McDonnell Ranges
Corroboree Rock East McDonnell Ranges
Trephina Gorge East McDonnell Ranges
Ormiston Gorge West McDonnell Ranges
Simpsons Gap West McDonnell Ranges
Camped under the Desert Oaks on the way the Kings Canyon NT
Sunset from Tank Hill at Kings Creek Cattle Station NT
Part of the track to Kings Canyon
South Wall of Kings Canyon at sunrise
Mt Connor from the lookout on the Lasseter Highway
Salt lake behind sand dune at Mt Connor Lookout
